Recore layup layers timing
Recore layup layers timing
We have just gotten good enough weather for me to actually put core back into my boat as opposed to scraping/scratching/grinding/sanding it all out. I plan on laying down a layer of 17oz biax (with mat stitched t the back) on the lower skin because it is alarmingly thin and is pockmarked with enough holes that it would be easier to lay down a new layer than it would be to patch all the voids. Then I am recoring with 3/8" balsa and then I will laminate a new deck skin with a few layers of 17 oz biax topped with a layer of 10oz cloth. My biggest question to you guys is how long have you/would you wait between these various steps to proceed to the next layer? If at all possible, I'd like to have all the layers chemically bond, but I don't want to build up too much due to the heat. I have tentatively planned on the first layer of biax, and then the core immediately after, and then letting that cure and then go to the deck layers. For those of you that have laminated a whole new deck skin, how may layers did you do at a time?
-
- Damned Because It's All Connected
- Posts: 2847
- Joined: Tue Apr 08, 2003 9:32 am
- Boat Name: Triton
- Boat Type: Grand Banks 42
- Location: L.I. Sound
No worries. Your process as described shouldn't create any significant heat. It's a series of thin layers. Go to it.
My one suggestion would be to hold off on the final layer of deck cloth. In all likelihood, the surface will be fairly wiggly after your buildup of biax for the deck layers. I'd spread a layer of fairing compound goop over that, let the whole deal cure, and do a bit of rough-fairing before laying that final layer of nice smooth cloth.
My one suggestion would be to hold off on the final layer of deck cloth. In all likelihood, the surface will be fairly wiggly after your buildup of biax for the deck layers. I'd spread a layer of fairing compound goop over that, let the whole deal cure, and do a bit of rough-fairing before laying that final layer of nice smooth cloth.
Thanks for the reality check guys. I'd really like to do it all in one marathon session, but I think I'd be better of to do the core first and then layup the deck in a different session.
Pictures are a definite. I have quite a few of the boat to this point, as it is a total gut job and I use them to remind me why I didn't just leave it as is. Below are a few taken about two months ago. Not much left and that is what I had planned. Thanks again for the advice. Pardon the lack of shop vac use on the interior, it's much better now, I swear!





[/img]
Pictures are a definite. I have quite a few of the boat to this point, as it is a total gut job and I use them to remind me why I didn't just leave it as is. Below are a few taken about two months ago. Not much left and that is what I had planned. Thanks again for the advice. Pardon the lack of shop vac use on the interior, it's much better now, I swear!





[/img]
- Tim
- Shipwright Extraordinaire
- Posts: 5708
- Joined: Tue Apr 01, 2003 6:39 pm
- Boat Name: Glissando
- Boat Type: Pearson Triton
- Location: Whitefield, ME
- Contact:
You should definitely apply the core first, allow it to cure, and then lay up your new deck laminate. It would be a mistake to attempt all this at once, and would not be a viable way to do the job.Ryan wrote:I'd really like to do it all in one marathon session, but I think I'd be better of to do the core first and then layup the deck in a different session.
---------------------------------------------------
Forum Founder--No Longer Participating
Forum Founder--No Longer Participating
Is there any need to allow the first glass layer/core to completely cure (i.e. several days) before laying up the deck skin, or can I start the deck skin lay-up a day or so after the core (assuming that the epoxy has started to harden)?
The shape of my deck requires that there be a gap between the toerail and the core that I am going to fill with thickened epoxy. When this epoxy cures, I'll need to clean the amine blush off, but since the core is exposed, I can't just douse the whole works with water and scrub away. Should I just be very careful with the water (maybe in a spray/spritzer bottle) and just make sure that any balsa that got wet dries out completely before I start the deck lay-up?
The shape of my deck requires that there be a gap between the toerail and the core that I am going to fill with thickened epoxy. When this epoxy cures, I'll need to clean the amine blush off, but since the core is exposed, I can't just douse the whole works with water and scrub away. Should I just be very careful with the water (maybe in a spray/spritzer bottle) and just make sure that any balsa that got wet dries out completely before I start the deck lay-up?
- Tim
- Shipwright Extraordinaire
- Posts: 5708
- Joined: Tue Apr 01, 2003 6:39 pm
- Boat Name: Glissando
- Boat Type: Pearson Triton
- Location: Whitefield, ME
- Contact:
A small amount of water like that won't be a problem for your core, if you're careful.
It's actually better, and makes a stronger layup, if you do NOT wait for "full" cure between layers. The bond is stronger (still a chemical bond) when new material is laminated on "green" epoxy (usually overnight). The good thing about epoxy is that it forms very strong secondary bonds as well, so if your previous work has cured for several days, the new material will still bond very well--just not at a chemical level.
It's actually better, and makes a stronger layup, if you do NOT wait for "full" cure between layers. The bond is stronger (still a chemical bond) when new material is laminated on "green" epoxy (usually overnight). The good thing about epoxy is that it forms very strong secondary bonds as well, so if your previous work has cured for several days, the new material will still bond very well--just not at a chemical level.
---------------------------------------------------
Forum Founder--No Longer Participating
Forum Founder--No Longer Participating