Too Cheap boat hardware.

[Peter]

This link was posted on the San Juan 24 list:
http://store.marinepartdepot.com/index.html
Click on the "Index" link to see a full listing of product.

I don't know if I'd buy critical parts like turnbuckes, but I know where my next dodger hardware is coming from . ... and get a load of that stainless CQR-like anchor!

[Ryan]

Has any used/still using the stainless cleats like the ones on the above website? Opinions? I have some monster 8" cleats on my boat that are a bit worse for the wear, and I'd like to replace them.

[CharlieJ]

looks like a good price, but who knows about quality. Those are what's called "herreshoff" style cleats. The best design ever made as far as I'm concerned. I too had some 8 inchers on the bow of my Meridian 25 - a pair of them. I moved those to the stern and put a pair of 10 inch bronze ones up on the bow. Big cleats are the ticket. If they'll fit the space, the bigger the better. Most boats come with cleats that are too small. You need to easily be able to cleat down two lines on a cleat- if you can't, EASILY, then they are too small.

[rshowarth]

Well I ordered some cleats, I could not pass up the price. The US Postal Service says they have been notified of anticipated shipment from:

DEPEI LIU
TURQUOIS, INC
37 RADIANCE LN
RANCHO SANTA MARGARITA CA 92688-8718

I will let you know if I receive them and how they look.

[rshowarth]

Well the cleats arrived yesterday. In fact they look exactly like the 20 dollar cleats at West Marine. They look great and I was not charged postage.

By the way what do you recommend as a polyurethane sealant for bedding cleats, jib tracks, etc. to the deck?

Thank you

[Ryan]

Thanks for the update on the cleats!

[dasein668]

By the way what do you recommend as a polyurethane sealant for bedding cleats, jib tracks, etc. to the deck?

No, most polyurethanes are adhesives. For most bedding applications I use a polysulfide such as 3M 101 or similar.

[rshowarth]

Nathan-

Thanks. As you can tell, I am new to this and need everything explained to me.

Is Boat Life Life Seal or Boat Life Caulk a polysulfide or polyurethane?

Also, where can I find steel backing plates for the cleats. I have soaked fiberboard there now.

Another thought was to use "prime virgin high density polyethylene" sheets, cut to size. This site has a sale section that might provide reasonable cost material for backing plates if they are stiff enough.

http://thecuttingboardfactory.com/Merch ... rchant.mvc?

Any thoughts?

[dasein668]

I believe that BoatLife makes both a polysulfide and a polyurethane, though I may be incorrect there... Life Caulk, however, is polysulfide (or polysulfide-like) sealant, rather than an adhesive.

You can buy steel sheet (and pretty much anything else you can imagine) from McMaster Carr.

High density polyethylene is probably fine too. Much easier to mill, that's for sure. Tim may have some thoughts here.

[rshowarth]

Thanks Nathan-

Tim-

Your thoughts.

The aft cleats on my Mariner act as the aft lifting points for my lifting bridle. (The front lifting points are the chainplates). We dry sail our Mariners and use a hoist to drop, I mean lower, our boats into the water.

The polyethylene would definitely be easier to cut and shape.

[Tim]

The idea of a backing plate is to spread the fastener load over a wider area of the bearing surface. Therefore, many different materials can be used for backing plates, as long as the material is non-compressable and water resistant. The ultimate strength of the materials relative to one another are far less important.

Plywood, poly sheeting, aluminum, and stainless steel are all common choices. So, unfortunately, is mild steel, which should never be used; I've seen far too many flaking rusty messes as a result. Mild steel has no place on a boat (boats of full steel construction excepted).

Poly sheets are probably a good way to go. I'd use something like 3/8" or 1/2" thickness, and for your specific installation where the fitting will be used as a lift (with the load directly upwards), I'd make the backing plates as large as you can within the confines of the available space. Use large diameter fender washers too, for added lifting strength.

There's always a lot of confusion about the two Boatlife sealant products. Here is the rundown:

Boatlife Lifecaulk is a polysulfide sealant, basically the same as 3M 101. This stuff is pretty good, and has the added benefit of being available in mahogany and black colors, whereas 3M 101 is available only in white.

Boatlife Lifeseal is a combination of silicone and polyurethane that is supposed to combine favorable characteristics of both. This product can be used to seal all plastics, while Lifecaulk (or any polysulfide) cannot be used on certain plastics, most notably lexan and the ABS plastics used for deck plates and similar products..

[dasein668]

I figured that someone hear would be able to clarify the Boatlife situation!

Additional note: I've used both 101 as well as white and mahogany Lifecaulk. If you are going with white, I'd use the 101, as the white Lifecaulk seems more prone to yellowing with sun-exposure than the 101. The mahogany seems to have no such color-fastness problems.

[rshowarth]

Tim and Nathan-

White 3M 101 looks good, for color fastness and for content. As to the Lifeseal, I remember... Silicone-Never, ever, ever, ever.....

I will use the polyethylene boards for ease of shaping and drilling. I have some 1/2 inch stock which I used to make mast partner blocks for a Lightning.

Regards