Why I'm Selling My Triton
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Why I'm Selling My Triton
I love Tritons. I think they are wonderful, fun boats and I've enjoyed mine immensely. However, it does not fit the needs of what I would like to do more of, which is extended weekend cruises and one or two longer cruises each year. Plus the ability to race competively in the occasional PHRF regatta. Which is why I've listed the Triton for sale in the Classified forum.
I have given serious consideration to whether or not I should sell the Triton. As much as I've worked on it, it is still an average Triton. The storm damage set me back considerably and I, frankly, want to spend less time working and more time sailing.
I hope the buyer gets the same enjoyment out of the boat as I have.
As to the next boat - I'm actually not sure. I have given thought to a boat that retains the Plastic Classic look and feel - like a Cheoy Lee or Cape Dory in the +30 foot range (though the PHRF would suffer) and to more modern boats like some of the C&C's, Pearsons or Catalina 30's of late 80's/early 90's vintage. I still have some time to make that decision and will be shopping boats all along the Gulf Coast, from Corpus Christi, TX to Tampa, FL.
I know that in all likelihood the next boat will be a departure from the world of Plastic Classics. I'm OK with that though. I like new boats as well as old and, while I enjoy poking fun at the Bene-slows and other high topsided floating condos, they do have their own appeal.
Either way, I'll still be here posting away, but I may well lack the common bond shared by those of you who will still cheerily go upside-down and headfirst into your lazarette to grind away 45 year old fiberglass. Which is OK with me!
I have given serious consideration to whether or not I should sell the Triton. As much as I've worked on it, it is still an average Triton. The storm damage set me back considerably and I, frankly, want to spend less time working and more time sailing.
I hope the buyer gets the same enjoyment out of the boat as I have.
As to the next boat - I'm actually not sure. I have given thought to a boat that retains the Plastic Classic look and feel - like a Cheoy Lee or Cape Dory in the +30 foot range (though the PHRF would suffer) and to more modern boats like some of the C&C's, Pearsons or Catalina 30's of late 80's/early 90's vintage. I still have some time to make that decision and will be shopping boats all along the Gulf Coast, from Corpus Christi, TX to Tampa, FL.
I know that in all likelihood the next boat will be a departure from the world of Plastic Classics. I'm OK with that though. I like new boats as well as old and, while I enjoy poking fun at the Bene-slows and other high topsided floating condos, they do have their own appeal.
Either way, I'll still be here posting away, but I may well lack the common bond shared by those of you who will still cheerily go upside-down and headfirst into your lazarette to grind away 45 year old fiberglass. Which is OK with me!
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- Damned Because It's All Connected
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Re: Why I'm Selling My Triton
What PHRF range were you thinking of as "competitive"?#218 wrote: extended weekend cruises and one or two longer cruises each year. Plus the ability to race competively in the occasional PHRF regatta.
First thought: Morgan 28. Not bad on the eyes, decent accommodation, PHRF 185+/-
Half the fun of buying is in the hunting!
- catamount
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Re: Why I'm Selling My Triton
Have we ever defined "the world of Plastic Classics?"#218 wrote:I know that in all likelihood the next boat will be a departure from the world of Plastic Classics.
Gee, maybe I'm in the wrong place...
(Oh yeah, for those of you interested in an all Plastic Classic crew for the Halifax Race, my boat doesn't qualify for their Classic Yacht division, which is restricted to boats designed before 1970 _or_ built of plank on frame construction. And FWIW, the Peterson 34 has a PHRF base rating of 117.)
Tim Allen -- 1980 Peterson 34 GREYHAWK
Harborfields Housekeeping Cottages, West Boothbay Harbor, Maine
Sailors for the Sea, a new voice for ocean conservation
Harborfields Housekeeping Cottages, West Boothbay Harbor, Maine
Sailors for the Sea, a new voice for ocean conservation
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- Boateg
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Re: Why I'm Selling My Triton
Lame. Let's go bust some heads at the Halfax race HQ.catamount wrote:my boat doesn't qualify for their Classic Yacht division, which is restricted to boats designed before 1970 _or_ built of plank on frame construction.
Nathan
dasein668.com
dasein668.com
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I was aboard a J-30 this summer. It was pretty roomy inside, with a nice traditional looking interior. Outside looks good (in a sporty type of way), reasonably priced, and a PHRF quite a bit lower than 170. I would definately think about this when I look for a bigger boat.
San Juan 30 - great boat in light air (if that is what you sail in). A real giant killer in light air in fact. However, in heavier air, the faster boats will walk away from you.
San Juan 30 - great boat in light air (if that is what you sail in). A real giant killer in light air in fact. However, in heavier air, the faster boats will walk away from you.
Rick
Summer's Dawn
24 San Juan #380
Summer's Dawn
24 San Juan #380
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I came very, very close to buying a J30 a few months ago. I put in an offer, which was declined. It sold for $1000 more than my offer less than a week later. It was a good boat - incredible sail inventory, race ready bottom, and 2 year old Yanmar.
However, I'm glad (I think) that I didn't buy it. For one, the J30 fleet got totally creamed during Katrina. We went from over a dozen boats to two. So OD was out. It is a pretty good PHRF boat but we beat them like drums on the Jeanneau, which has the same rating (138).
In addition, I'm looking for cruiser first, PHRF racer second. I already have a ride for the majority of the races - which has it's own obligation and the advantage of someone else paying for the bottom work, sails, etc. The J30 is not a comfortable cruising boat with the wide, flat cockpit with no coamings and the low profile cabin top. Good boats, to be sure, but not what I am looking for. I did like the interior though.
The racing I plan to do will be some of the more interesting regatta's, like the Leukemia Cup (which gets a huge turnout), 2 Against the Lake, Round the Lake (fun night race, you can go around either direction), and Gulfport to Pensacola (Offshore race, unpredictable and fun). The rest of the time is cruising between here and Florida.
I am considering Mark II Catalina 30's with the Tall Rig. It is such a common boat though... so I don't know yet. I'm still making my list of possibles, though, so I'm up for suggestions - keep 'em coming.
However, I'm glad (I think) that I didn't buy it. For one, the J30 fleet got totally creamed during Katrina. We went from over a dozen boats to two. So OD was out. It is a pretty good PHRF boat but we beat them like drums on the Jeanneau, which has the same rating (138).
In addition, I'm looking for cruiser first, PHRF racer second. I already have a ride for the majority of the races - which has it's own obligation and the advantage of someone else paying for the bottom work, sails, etc. The J30 is not a comfortable cruising boat with the wide, flat cockpit with no coamings and the low profile cabin top. Good boats, to be sure, but not what I am looking for. I did like the interior though.
The racing I plan to do will be some of the more interesting regatta's, like the Leukemia Cup (which gets a huge turnout), 2 Against the Lake, Round the Lake (fun night race, you can go around either direction), and Gulfport to Pensacola (Offshore race, unpredictable and fun). The rest of the time is cruising between here and Florida.
I am considering Mark II Catalina 30's with the Tall Rig. It is such a common boat though... so I don't know yet. I'm still making my list of possibles, though, so I'm up for suggestions - keep 'em coming.
I like both the Pearson and the C&C. I grew up sailing and racing a Pearson 10M. I'm not familiar with the Laser. The S2 doesn't do it for me - I'm not really sure why, maybe the ones I've seen have all been raggedy.Pearson 30 maybe? C&C 30?
Laser 28 is pretty quick, though.
S2 9.1 is really quick.
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- Tim
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There are lots of good boats out there. J boats are often good candidates, as many of them have decent interiors to go along with their always-good performance. I'm not a huge fan of J-boats myself, but I am happy to admit their speed on the racecourse and general cruisability. Those guys have something right. Older J-boats had a lot of cored hull and deck issues, so beware of that.
If you believe that you will want to enter races and have fun doing so, then seriously look for a boat that will be competitive in your local fleet. It need not be a racing machine, but that depends on what other people are racing in your area.
Pearson 30s used to rate 168, 25 years ago. I don't know what they are now, but I imagine it's higher. P30s continue to be a competitive boat in the D-class fleet around here. They are solid performers, and acceptable cruisers, though they're kind of plain.
People say racing is fun no matter what, and that high-rated boats are OK because you make up the time on handicap. But it's a real drag to be tailing the fleet, whether you're ahead on time correction or not. A boat that is at least in the middle of the rating arena is decent. Frankly, you don't want to be scratch boat in your class either.
Most local fleets incorporate boats that race fairly well, but are also adaptable cruisers. There are many more of these sorts of boats available than pure race boats, so you're in luck here. You already know what boats are in the local fleet, so you can judge from there what sorts of boats you should be considering.
My own take on racing vs. cruising is that I personally prefer to do one or the other--and to do it thoroughly and well, and with the most ideal setup I can muster. I think this is probably why I am so done with racing: I can't see having a crossover boat. I'd need two boats--one set up for racing, and one for cruising. I'd never remotely think of racing a Triton for this reason, particularly mine, which is clearly set up for cruising.
Note: pure personal opinion follows.
I think racing is best done on racing machines. Competitive racing is very tough on the boat and gear, and extraneous gear inboard and out is just in the way and likely to suffer wear and tear that won't be appreciated when cruising. Racing is more fun on boats that excel on the race course, and are set up for that purpose. I think cruising cockpits can be awkward for races, and vise-versa.
Likewise, cruising is best done on a cruising machine, one set up for comfort and liveability, with the proper amenities and gear on board.
When I raced on my dad's C&C 40 in the early 80s, I used to strip every excess piece of gear off the boat for races. Nothing extraneous could be left behind. The C&C was a competitive boat at the time, but certainly didn't need the extra weight. Frankly, at that stage of my life I would have preferred a real race boat. Converting between racing mode and cruising mode was a 2-day affair.
Later on, I crewed on a pure race boat--a fairly recent (at the time) 45' IOR boat. (Or course, IOR is defunct now.) The experience was so different, and the boat made no pretenses at being anything other than pure racing machine. This was a carbon fiber/epoxy, stripped interior, no frills grand prix boat, but she was a joy to race. Obviously she was no good for anything else. I think this experience cemented my opinion about crossover boats vs. pure racing or cruising machine, and is also part of the reason I converted to 100% cruising when I got my own boat.
Good luck, Jason. The fun is just beginning.
If you believe that you will want to enter races and have fun doing so, then seriously look for a boat that will be competitive in your local fleet. It need not be a racing machine, but that depends on what other people are racing in your area.
Pearson 30s used to rate 168, 25 years ago. I don't know what they are now, but I imagine it's higher. P30s continue to be a competitive boat in the D-class fleet around here. They are solid performers, and acceptable cruisers, though they're kind of plain.
People say racing is fun no matter what, and that high-rated boats are OK because you make up the time on handicap. But it's a real drag to be tailing the fleet, whether you're ahead on time correction or not. A boat that is at least in the middle of the rating arena is decent. Frankly, you don't want to be scratch boat in your class either.
Most local fleets incorporate boats that race fairly well, but are also adaptable cruisers. There are many more of these sorts of boats available than pure race boats, so you're in luck here. You already know what boats are in the local fleet, so you can judge from there what sorts of boats you should be considering.
My own take on racing vs. cruising is that I personally prefer to do one or the other--and to do it thoroughly and well, and with the most ideal setup I can muster. I think this is probably why I am so done with racing: I can't see having a crossover boat. I'd need two boats--one set up for racing, and one for cruising. I'd never remotely think of racing a Triton for this reason, particularly mine, which is clearly set up for cruising.
Note: pure personal opinion follows.
I think racing is best done on racing machines. Competitive racing is very tough on the boat and gear, and extraneous gear inboard and out is just in the way and likely to suffer wear and tear that won't be appreciated when cruising. Racing is more fun on boats that excel on the race course, and are set up for that purpose. I think cruising cockpits can be awkward for races, and vise-versa.
Likewise, cruising is best done on a cruising machine, one set up for comfort and liveability, with the proper amenities and gear on board.
When I raced on my dad's C&C 40 in the early 80s, I used to strip every excess piece of gear off the boat for races. Nothing extraneous could be left behind. The C&C was a competitive boat at the time, but certainly didn't need the extra weight. Frankly, at that stage of my life I would have preferred a real race boat. Converting between racing mode and cruising mode was a 2-day affair.
Later on, I crewed on a pure race boat--a fairly recent (at the time) 45' IOR boat. (Or course, IOR is defunct now.) The experience was so different, and the boat made no pretenses at being anything other than pure racing machine. This was a carbon fiber/epoxy, stripped interior, no frills grand prix boat, but she was a joy to race. Obviously she was no good for anything else. I think this experience cemented my opinion about crossover boats vs. pure racing or cruising machine, and is also part of the reason I converted to 100% cruising when I got my own boat.
Good luck, Jason. The fun is just beginning.
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Hi Jason,
I struggled with this exact same thing myself a few years ago. I love being out there on the race course and the Triton was just not good at racing in the light airs of the Chesapeake. Even the races I won didn't feel much like winning when I was 20 minutes behind the leader. After much hair pulling I settled on a 1979 C&C 40 that had been kept up on Lake Erie and trucked it down to Virginia in 2003.
I then spent two years doing the dance that Tim mentions above. Lugging really heavy sails, anchor rode, batteries, etc up and down the dock every other week -- The heavy #1, for example weighs 73 lbs alone. I would also remove the racing head foil system and forestay and replace it with the roller furler system whenever I was heading out on a cruise more than a few days long. This took its toll on my patience with racing and cruising the same boat. Also, the racing was like running a small corporation. It took a minimum of 9 skilled crew to engage in a downwind tacking duel under spinnaker on the C&C 40. That required a crew list of 15 people to make sure I had at least 9 - 12 every Wednesday and Saturday. Lots of fun though, having no one between you and the finish line and a fleet of 19 boats strung out behind you all under spinnaker. Racing really is more fun from the front of the pack. Lots of work though.
The solution I came up with during the fall of 2005 was to go in on a smaller pure racing keelboat with a friend of mine who raced with me on the C&C 40. We split the slip rental and we do all the boat work and sail work ourselves to help keep the costs down. The boat we settled on was a Wavelength 24 built by the W.D. Schock corporation in California. It's fast, light, well balanced, and can be crewed by 4 skilled people. This last Wednesday 3 J 30's, a J 40, a Hobie 33, a Kirby 33, a Benetau 8 meter, and a host of others we unable to catch us on the beat to the first windward mark and then couldn't beat us on time. I highly reccomend the WL24!
Like Tim, I believe that the only true solution is the two boat solution. Especially if you get a bigger boat -- those sails get heavy!
However, if you want a couple of good one boat options let me reccomend the C&C 35 and the Endeavor 35 as excellent racer / cruisers. They both PHRF in the 130 - 150 range, are very well built, and comfortable to cruise. I also like the J 30. It's a great racer but not too well built -- lots of 1/4 inch plywood everywhere to keep weight down. Definetly not an ocean boat but strong enough for the Chesapeake certainly.
Good Luck,
George
C&C 40 "Delphinis"
WL 24 "Poco Loco"
I struggled with this exact same thing myself a few years ago. I love being out there on the race course and the Triton was just not good at racing in the light airs of the Chesapeake. Even the races I won didn't feel much like winning when I was 20 minutes behind the leader. After much hair pulling I settled on a 1979 C&C 40 that had been kept up on Lake Erie and trucked it down to Virginia in 2003.
I then spent two years doing the dance that Tim mentions above. Lugging really heavy sails, anchor rode, batteries, etc up and down the dock every other week -- The heavy #1, for example weighs 73 lbs alone. I would also remove the racing head foil system and forestay and replace it with the roller furler system whenever I was heading out on a cruise more than a few days long. This took its toll on my patience with racing and cruising the same boat. Also, the racing was like running a small corporation. It took a minimum of 9 skilled crew to engage in a downwind tacking duel under spinnaker on the C&C 40. That required a crew list of 15 people to make sure I had at least 9 - 12 every Wednesday and Saturday. Lots of fun though, having no one between you and the finish line and a fleet of 19 boats strung out behind you all under spinnaker. Racing really is more fun from the front of the pack. Lots of work though.
The solution I came up with during the fall of 2005 was to go in on a smaller pure racing keelboat with a friend of mine who raced with me on the C&C 40. We split the slip rental and we do all the boat work and sail work ourselves to help keep the costs down. The boat we settled on was a Wavelength 24 built by the W.D. Schock corporation in California. It's fast, light, well balanced, and can be crewed by 4 skilled people. This last Wednesday 3 J 30's, a J 40, a Hobie 33, a Kirby 33, a Benetau 8 meter, and a host of others we unable to catch us on the beat to the first windward mark and then couldn't beat us on time. I highly reccomend the WL24!
Like Tim, I believe that the only true solution is the two boat solution. Especially if you get a bigger boat -- those sails get heavy!
However, if you want a couple of good one boat options let me reccomend the C&C 35 and the Endeavor 35 as excellent racer / cruisers. They both PHRF in the 130 - 150 range, are very well built, and comfortable to cruise. I also like the J 30. It's a great racer but not too well built -- lots of 1/4 inch plywood everywhere to keep weight down. Definetly not an ocean boat but strong enough for the Chesapeake certainly.
Good Luck,
George
C&C 40 "Delphinis"
WL 24 "Poco Loco"
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I should downplay the racing aspect of what I am really looking for. I race on another boat and will continue to do so. However, there are a few races each year that I would like to use my own boat for. These are some charity events, some shorthanded/solo races that I can do with my dad, and one semi-offshore race.
The rest of the time will be daysailing, weekending, and cruising. I will need to accomodate a fair amount of inexperienced crew and will need a comfortable boat. These criteria take precedence over the racing aspect. However, I do not want a slow boat, thus the desire for a boat the PHRF rates in the 170's or lower.
I would like to buy a boat purely for racing that is small enough to drysail and trailer to regattas in other parts of the country. I'll buy the cruising (and occasional racing) boat first and see how the budget works itself out over the next year or so. Plus, I am still waiting to see what One Design fleets develop down here. There has been a lot of activity to generate sizable fleets of a couple different designs. A Melges 24 is at the top of my list and if a couple more boats make it down here (there's three new ones so far), I may jump on that bandwagon.
George, the Wavelength 24 is an awesome boat. There's one that races out of Gulfport, I think. I wish more were in the area.
Tim and George, I absolutely agree with you that it's very hard to find one boat that does both things well. I'll be the last person to take all my cushions out of the boat and cut a toothbrush in half to save weight. For most of my sailing I like cold drinks, comfortable rides, and enough room to accomodate a number of friends.
The C&C 35 and (even more so) the Endeavor 35 are nice boats. They might be a bit out of my budget though. Of course, I have the unfortunate ability to sell myself anything - so you never know.
The rest of the time will be daysailing, weekending, and cruising. I will need to accomodate a fair amount of inexperienced crew and will need a comfortable boat. These criteria take precedence over the racing aspect. However, I do not want a slow boat, thus the desire for a boat the PHRF rates in the 170's or lower.
I would like to buy a boat purely for racing that is small enough to drysail and trailer to regattas in other parts of the country. I'll buy the cruising (and occasional racing) boat first and see how the budget works itself out over the next year or so. Plus, I am still waiting to see what One Design fleets develop down here. There has been a lot of activity to generate sizable fleets of a couple different designs. A Melges 24 is at the top of my list and if a couple more boats make it down here (there's three new ones so far), I may jump on that bandwagon.
George, the Wavelength 24 is an awesome boat. There's one that races out of Gulfport, I think. I wish more were in the area.
Tim and George, I absolutely agree with you that it's very hard to find one boat that does both things well. I'll be the last person to take all my cushions out of the boat and cut a toothbrush in half to save weight. For most of my sailing I like cold drinks, comfortable rides, and enough room to accomodate a number of friends.
The C&C 35 and (even more so) the Endeavor 35 are nice boats. They might be a bit out of my budget though. Of course, I have the unfortunate ability to sell myself anything - so you never know.
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I've always felt that there's no optimal multi-purpose option in any vehicle. A motorcycle that blasts you through the dirt won't get you across the country; a truck that tows your boat won't take the family Florida . . . blah, blah blah. Neither will a crusing boat be competitive on the race course; or a racing boat accomodate me and the lass for a couple weeks in the islands.
For racing - much as I enjoy other people's money spent on high tech sails and $10-per-ft line - I've always been partial to OD. The finishes aren't determined before the starts, and the skill of the skipper and crew is much more important at the finish than expenditure of boat units.
Plus, around here, boats with a PHRF rating of 200+ aren't looked upon favorably and when they are allowed, the beer is generally gone by the time you finish. Certainly not an optimial racing situation.
The alternatiive I favor is to set up the T27 to do what she does best: cruise anywhere, and occasionally race solo. To appease the racing jones I'm thinking a Jet 14 - there's a great local fleet - or a Highlander, built in the same D&M yard as my Tartan.
The small boat doesn't require the same effort or resources as running a small business and the Tartan doesn't need to be rigged with consideration for racing.
Greg
For racing - much as I enjoy other people's money spent on high tech sails and $10-per-ft line - I've always been partial to OD. The finishes aren't determined before the starts, and the skill of the skipper and crew is much more important at the finish than expenditure of boat units.
Plus, around here, boats with a PHRF rating of 200+ aren't looked upon favorably and when they are allowed, the beer is generally gone by the time you finish. Certainly not an optimial racing situation.
The alternatiive I favor is to set up the T27 to do what she does best: cruise anywhere, and occasionally race solo. To appease the racing jones I'm thinking a Jet 14 - there's a great local fleet - or a Highlander, built in the same D&M yard as my Tartan.
The small boat doesn't require the same effort or resources as running a small business and the Tartan doesn't need to be rigged with consideration for racing.
Greg
Tartan 27 #77
Seafarer Meridian 26
Jet 14 #952
Seafarer Meridian 26
Jet 14 #952
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Hi Jason,
Here's a couple of photo's of the Wavelength 24 ( poor mans Melges 24 ). Rod and I bought it for 5K including trailer and engine. Rebuilt the boat including 62 feet of structural foam stiffening stringers and alll new bulkheads. Stripped the mast, Awlgripped it, and put on all new standing rigging in Dyform. Made a couple of new sails and started racing! Total investment was about 9K when all was said and done for a small, beautifully fast, PHRF racing keel boat. A whole lot cheaper than $30K for a used Melges 24. Here are some pictures.


George
Here's a couple of photo's of the Wavelength 24 ( poor mans Melges 24 ). Rod and I bought it for 5K including trailer and engine. Rebuilt the boat including 62 feet of structural foam stiffening stringers and alll new bulkheads. Stripped the mast, Awlgripped it, and put on all new standing rigging in Dyform. Made a couple of new sails and started racing! Total investment was about 9K when all was said and done for a small, beautifully fast, PHRF racing keel boat. A whole lot cheaper than $30K for a used Melges 24. Here are some pictures.


George
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One design racing is THE way to go!
I race a Shark 24 (Our website is www.shark24.org) and at my club, we have between 6 and 10 boats out for each weeknight race. First to finish wins. It's that simple and very satisfying.
George - On the WL24, do you leave the spinnaker pole in that position all the time, even when sailing? If so, doesn't it interfere with the jib when tacking?
Lyman
I race a Shark 24 (Our website is www.shark24.org) and at my club, we have between 6 and 10 boats out for each weeknight race. First to finish wins. It's that simple and very satisfying.
George - On the WL24, do you leave the spinnaker pole in that position all the time, even when sailing? If so, doesn't it interfere with the jib when tacking?
Lyman
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George, that is one sweet little boat. I wish there were more of them down here for OD. I'm going to keep my eye out for one in the area.
Shark, I really like OD racing as well. Though I mostly race PHRF, I'll occasionally crew on an OD race. Of course, the last OD race I did was on a J-22 (not my favorite boat) and we were toasted. It is still a great way to learn, which was why I got into racing in the first place.
Shark, I really like OD racing as well. Though I mostly race PHRF, I'll occasionally crew on an OD race. Of course, the last OD race I did was on a J-22 (not my favorite boat) and we were toasted. It is still a great way to learn, which was why I got into racing in the first place.
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Hi Lyman,
I store the spinnaker pole in that position so the tip can't bump into anything when she's in the slip. ( However, that is the position the pole is brought to in the instant before the pole is raised for a spinnaker hoist )
While we are out on the water, the inboard end is locked to the spinnaker pole track about 10" above the deck. That puts the outboard end of the pole through the bow pulpit and about 18" beyond the stem of the boat. This leaves the pole right next to the deck so it is easy for the genoa to slide back and forth while still leaving everything set up for a quick hoist. The guy is rigged through the outboard jaws when we determine which side we are going to hoist from and is then left alone until the hoist takes place -- usually before we even cross the start line.
We leave both the downhaul and the pole topping lift attached at all times as well. The pole topping lift line comes down the face of the mast and through the inboard jaws of the pole before connecting to the pole lift ring. This keeps the topping lift line next to either the mast or the spinnaker pole and out of the way of the genoa but completely attached in preperation for lifting the pole.
I agree with you about OD being the best form of sailboat racing. It is the pure sport. However, it's the rare club these days that has a weekly OD program and rarer still the opportunity to race OD away from the club. Good stuff if your club does it though.
George
I store the spinnaker pole in that position so the tip can't bump into anything when she's in the slip. ( However, that is the position the pole is brought to in the instant before the pole is raised for a spinnaker hoist )
While we are out on the water, the inboard end is locked to the spinnaker pole track about 10" above the deck. That puts the outboard end of the pole through the bow pulpit and about 18" beyond the stem of the boat. This leaves the pole right next to the deck so it is easy for the genoa to slide back and forth while still leaving everything set up for a quick hoist. The guy is rigged through the outboard jaws when we determine which side we are going to hoist from and is then left alone until the hoist takes place -- usually before we even cross the start line.
We leave both the downhaul and the pole topping lift attached at all times as well. The pole topping lift line comes down the face of the mast and through the inboard jaws of the pole before connecting to the pole lift ring. This keeps the topping lift line next to either the mast or the spinnaker pole and out of the way of the genoa but completely attached in preperation for lifting the pole.
I agree with you about OD being the best form of sailboat racing. It is the pure sport. However, it's the rare club these days that has a weekly OD program and rarer still the opportunity to race OD away from the club. Good stuff if your club does it though.
George
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George,
Does the topping lift line remain in the inboard jaws while flying the chute? If so, how do you jibe the chute? We sail with pole either attached to the side of the boom or slung under it, like dinghy racers.
OD racing - There are about 2500 Sharks in existence world wide and 4 clubs in western Lake Ontario have fleets in excess of 20 boats. There are other large fleets in eastern Ontario. OD racing in Sharks is done at all these clubs and at several in europe as well. 53 boats were registered at this year's world championship regatta held at the Royal Canadian Yacht Club in Toronto. Many Sharks never race but are much-loved family boats which are daysailed and cruised. It is a true Plastic Classic in this part of the world having been designed in 1959 in wood. It was one of the first boats in Canada to be built in fibreglass. Oh yes... I like Sharks. I've owned two of them.
Lyman
Does the topping lift line remain in the inboard jaws while flying the chute? If so, how do you jibe the chute? We sail with pole either attached to the side of the boom or slung under it, like dinghy racers.
OD racing - There are about 2500 Sharks in existence world wide and 4 clubs in western Lake Ontario have fleets in excess of 20 boats. There are other large fleets in eastern Ontario. OD racing in Sharks is done at all these clubs and at several in europe as well. 53 boats were registered at this year's world championship regatta held at the Royal Canadian Yacht Club in Toronto. Many Sharks never race but are much-loved family boats which are daysailed and cruised. It is a true Plastic Classic in this part of the world having been designed in 1959 in wood. It was one of the first boats in Canada to be built in fibreglass. Oh yes... I like Sharks. I've owned two of them.
Lyman
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minor thread hijack: I almost bought a Shark as my first boat... I learned later that it was one of three CRUISING versions made. It was a Hinterhoeller Shark, Mark III. The owner couldn't get me a clean title.
PHRF has so many problems with it that OD is definietly the way to go. But if you want to be competitive in PHRF, like someone said, pick a boat that is competitive.
While I enjoy cruising, I do like to get to where I am going within a reasonable amount of time without a lot of unecessary stuff hanging off the rail or stowed below. :)
PHRF has so many problems with it that OD is definietly the way to go. But if you want to be competitive in PHRF, like someone said, pick a boat that is competitive.
While I enjoy cruising, I do like to get to where I am going within a reasonable amount of time without a lot of unecessary stuff hanging off the rail or stowed below. :)
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CC,
George Hinterhoeller designed and built a number of great sailboats in addition to the Shark 24. These include the HR25, HR27, which became the HR28 and the Redwing 30. These boats are primarily cruisers but are raced under PHRF. He later became a founding partner of C&C Yachts and continued to build the Shark 24 as a C&C boat.
Lyman
George Hinterhoeller designed and built a number of great sailboats in addition to the Shark 24. These include the HR25, HR27, which became the HR28 and the Redwing 30. These boats are primarily cruisers but are raced under PHRF. He later became a founding partner of C&C Yachts and continued to build the Shark 24 as a C&C boat.
Lyman
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- Almost a Finish Carpenter
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I enjoyed my J/22; it's a great little boat that handles like a dinghy. Crew weight and sail trim can steer the boat. In fact, turning the rudder at mark roundings will put you out the back of a competitive fleet. I broke a rudder off just below the upper pintel in the '99 Worlds, in about 20 knots of air and 3-5 foot seas. We sailed her back in two or three miles from the racecourse, through the cut and into the dock using just sail trim and weight adjustment. Not that my knuckles weren't white and probably a good thing my jockeys were red.#218 wrote: Shark, I really like OD racing as well. Though I mostly race PHRF, I'll occasionally crew on an OD race. Of course, the last OD race I did was on a J-22 (not my favorite boat) and we were toasted. It is still a great way to learn, which was why I got into racing in the first place.
A friend in the J/24 fleet had a spare rudder in the garage - they're the same unit; 200 bucks, 2 hours work relocating the upper pintel, and we were back on the racecourse the next day.
Still, even the 22 required organizing three crew, with the need for a sub from time-to-time, and the high-tech go-fast stuff required in a competitive fleet in addition to regular boat maintainence.
We're pretty fortunate here to have a whole range of active and fairly competitive OD fleets. This summer the club hosted four national championships. I'm thinking I'll opt for the Jet 14 because the fleet here only races once a week on an off-night that doesn't cut into weekends and goes for five or six starts, windward-leeward. Only one crew; minimal boat-units to buy, store and rig the thing; and no conflict with cruising on weekends.
Still, Jason, if having six purpose-owned boats is as out of the question for you as it is for me, you've got to pick the one that meets your needs.
Greg
Tartan 27 #77
Seafarer Meridian 26
Jet 14 #952
Seafarer Meridian 26
Jet 14 #952
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That's the hard part! I could see having two boats, though I certainly won't be able to buy them at the same time. I think George has about the perfect combination of fun racer competent cruiser. I might just save my money and see if he needs crew. :)Still, Jason, if having six purpose-owned boats is as out of the question for you as it is for me, you've got to pick the one that meets your needs.
I went sailing on a Finn about a month ago, which is one of the classes our club is pushing. I got creamed again - I haven't sailed dinghys in a long time - but that was a FUN boat.
My problem is that there aren't many types of boats I don't like. If I had the money, I truly would have a fleet of sailboats.
The J-22's are good boats, they just aren't for me. Maybe I was just real uncomfortable - it was February, we had 5 races in one day, and I was soaked through. I was ready to get off the boat.
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The hunt is the fun part. Unfortunately, I am getting a disappointingly slow response to the Triton. I really can't buy the next boat until I sell the Triton, so after an initial burst of enthusiasm, I haven't been looking all that aggressively at "new" boats.How goes the hunt?
I looked at a Catalina 30 locally but didn't care for it (that specific boat), for a number of reasons. I really am hesistant to call brokers as I am not ready to buy and don't want to waste their time.
I've only shown the Triton twice. Once was to someone just looking for something to do on an afternoon (which was fine) and another to someone who was turned off by having to paint the topsides. I'm starting to wonder if I've priced the boat too high.
I do get an email inquiry from a scammer about every hour. Literally. Most of those have been generated from Craigslist and SailboatListings.com.
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boat price
Jason
It think your boat is priced about right. The New Orleans area boat market has got to be pretty weak right now. This is always a tough time of year to sell a boat. I think it would be worth it to paint the top sides. You want to set your boat apart from all the storm damaged boats on the market. A weekend and some paint would be time well spent. first impressions mean alot and a new paint job would do wonders. I don't think you need awlgrip just some decent yacht paint. This way if she doesn't sell you'll have a nice boat to sail around in. Don't sell or sail an I'm sick of this project boat. Sell an I've completed this project and I'm on to something else boat.
Having raced our triton quite a bit I can sympathise with your wanting something faster. Even when we come in first on corrected time we're still last over the line. It gets kinda old watching the fleet fade away on the downwind leg.
Best of luck with your saleing/sailing
Brock
ps
I may be interested in the boat but I need to pay you more then your asking and have you send me the balance. I can't go into it but it has to do with a relative of mine who is a member of the Royal family in Nigeria:)
It think your boat is priced about right. The New Orleans area boat market has got to be pretty weak right now. This is always a tough time of year to sell a boat. I think it would be worth it to paint the top sides. You want to set your boat apart from all the storm damaged boats on the market. A weekend and some paint would be time well spent. first impressions mean alot and a new paint job would do wonders. I don't think you need awlgrip just some decent yacht paint. This way if she doesn't sell you'll have a nice boat to sail around in. Don't sell or sail an I'm sick of this project boat. Sell an I've completed this project and I'm on to something else boat.
Having raced our triton quite a bit I can sympathise with your wanting something faster. Even when we come in first on corrected time we're still last over the line. It gets kinda old watching the fleet fade away on the downwind leg.
Best of luck with your saleing/sailing
Brock
ps
I may be interested in the boat but I need to pay you more then your asking and have you send me the balance. I can't go into it but it has to do with a relative of mine who is a member of the Royal family in Nigeria:)
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Hi Brock,
Good points and I agree the boat would be much more marketable if the topsides were painted. I simply do not have time now, but if the boat has not sold by December/January (slower times at work) I may put on topsides and bottom paint. I've already got the Awlgrip, so I would use that.
It would have been done already, but there were no yards willing to accomodate DIY work when I was able to get the work done. I haven't checked in a few months, but I imagine some space is opening up.
We'll see what happens. If the right buyer comes along, they'll get a lot of boat for the money. If not, I'm still enjoying the boat and I may have time to paint it in a few months. However, I am a naturally impatient person and the slow response thus far has been frustrating.
Good points and I agree the boat would be much more marketable if the topsides were painted. I simply do not have time now, but if the boat has not sold by December/January (slower times at work) I may put on topsides and bottom paint. I've already got the Awlgrip, so I would use that.
It would have been done already, but there were no yards willing to accomodate DIY work when I was able to get the work done. I haven't checked in a few months, but I imagine some space is opening up.
We'll see what happens. If the right buyer comes along, they'll get a lot of boat for the money. If not, I'm still enjoying the boat and I may have time to paint it in a few months. However, I am a naturally impatient person and the slow response thus far has been frustrating.
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Everyone has there own ideas about what makes racing fun, but I have to agree with Shark.
J Boats are very popular, and without going to the newer high end composites they are very fast choice. If you are considering one I recommend a careful inspection of the keel and surrounding area of the hull. J Boats keep our fiberglass dept. busy. We have one queued up next for the work bay. When they run aground the bottom wins every time.
I will race in any class and have fun, even bath tubs; providing we all agree to the type. Kohler or American Standard, doesn't matter all long as we all have the same one.One design racing is THE way to go!
J Boats are very popular, and without going to the newer high end composites they are very fast choice. If you are considering one I recommend a careful inspection of the keel and surrounding area of the hull. J Boats keep our fiberglass dept. busy. We have one queued up next for the work bay. When they run aground the bottom wins every time.
Dave Finnegan
builder of Spindrift 9N #521 'Wingë'
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builder of Spindrift 9N #521 'Wingë'
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Gresham’s Law of information: Bad information drives out good. No matter how long ago a correction for a particular error may have appeared in print or online, it never seems to catch up with the ever-widening distribution of the error.
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Well, the boat got surveyed today. It was originally scheduled for Tuesday but we rescheduled for today as it was cold and rainy on Tuesday. Of course, it was (despite forecasts) colder and rainier today. I don't know if it was the boat, the weather or me, but the surveyor wasn't the friendliest guy I've ever had aboard. I expected more feedback from him too, but he was not forthcoming. Oh well, I'm not writing the check so I guess I can't complain.
He did spend most of the ride home in the cabin. It was raining (a little bit) though, so I'll cut him some slack.
He asked if the motor smoked and I told him no, not really...not unless it's running. It doesn't and didn't on our run up the bayou, but I have a feeling that might make it into the survey even though I told him I was kidding. :)
The was only one surprise: the prop zinc has gone and the prop itself is "de-zincified" (is that really a word?). I'll need to replace that.
The rest of the deficiencies were known and communicated to the buyer. The worst are: soft foredeck and aft stbd side deck, topsides paintjob (obviously), and the need for a bottom job.
There were about five small blisters. They are forward and right at the turn of the bilge on both sides of the hull. They were there the last time the boat was hauled so it was not an unknow issue.
Here are some photos:





He did spend most of the ride home in the cabin. It was raining (a little bit) though, so I'll cut him some slack.
He asked if the motor smoked and I told him no, not really...not unless it's running. It doesn't and didn't on our run up the bayou, but I have a feeling that might make it into the survey even though I told him I was kidding. :)
The was only one surprise: the prop zinc has gone and the prop itself is "de-zincified" (is that really a word?). I'll need to replace that.
The rest of the deficiencies were known and communicated to the buyer. The worst are: soft foredeck and aft stbd side deck, topsides paintjob (obviously), and the need for a bottom job.
There were about five small blisters. They are forward and right at the turn of the bilge on both sides of the hull. They were there the last time the boat was hauled so it was not an unknow issue.
Here are some photos:





- Tim
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I was just thinking as I logged in this morning that I needed to ask you how things went, since you posted that teaser last week. Lo and behold!#218 wrote:Well, the boat got surveyed today.
Actually, this is sort of a sticky issue for surveyors. In most used boat sales, the surveyor is hired by, and there on behalf of, the buyer, and therefore his loyalties must lie with his client. It's arguably inappropriate for the surveyor to discuss his findings with the owner/seller or selling broker, at least without express permission from the surveyor's client. This doesn't mean that the surveyor has to be a jerk about it, of course.#218 wrote:I expected more feedback from him too, but he was not forthcoming.
Of course, some sellers legitimately want to know what might be wrong with their boat so that they can negotiate fairly and honestly with all the applicable information at hand. Sadly, though, honest intentions aren't always the case, which leads to the sort of closed-mouth type surveys that one frequently sees. However he chooses to handle it, the surveyor must first be allowed to report his findings to the person paying for his services and impartiality.
A lot of surveyors have a pretty high opinion of themselves. The ones who do, typically don't deserve the high opinion with which they adorn themselves. (That's pretty much true in any walk of life.)#218 wrote:...the surveyor wasn't the friendliest guy I've ever had aboard.
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- Damned Because It's All Connected
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- Boat Name: Triton
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Jeez those slings make me nervous! I only see them tethered on the portside, and not so well at that.
Maybe it's just that my boat hasn't seen a travelift in a few years, but I am NOT comfortable with what I see there.
Jason your boat really doesn't look that bad. I've forgotten what your interior is like, but after a (not trivial) topsides job the exterior will be just dandy! I assume that the powerwasher had done its thing prior to the pics, but still the bottom looks pretty good. Have you had it hauled since the storm, or do the 'gators scrub it for you?
Maybe it's just that my boat hasn't seen a travelift in a few years, but I am NOT comfortable with what I see there.
Jason your boat really doesn't look that bad. I've forgotten what your interior is like, but after a (not trivial) topsides job the exterior will be just dandy! I assume that the powerwasher had done its thing prior to the pics, but still the bottom looks pretty good. Have you had it hauled since the storm, or do the 'gators scrub it for you?
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I can certainly understand that and I didn't expect to get a verbal version of the report. I did expect to hear something though, particularly when we were cruising to the yard and just looking at the scenery.Tim wrote:Actually, this is sort of a sticky issue for surveyors. In most used boat sales, the surveyor is hired by, and there on behalf of, the buyer, and therefore his loyalties must lie with his client. It's arguably inappropriate for the surveyor to discuss his findings with the owner/seller or selling broker, at least without express permission from the surveyor's client. This doesn't mean that the surveyor has to be a jerk about it, of course.
If the seller wants to use the inspection as a negotiating tool for items not disclosed (and that is certainly fine), then I'll ask for a copy of the report to be sure we're on the same sheet of music.
Really? We'll, ignorance was blissful yesterday then. I don't know the first things about travelifts. They use a crane at my favorite yard on the southshore, so this was a new experience for me.Mike wrote:Maybe it's just that my boat hasn't seen a travelift in a few years, but I am NOT comfortable with what I see there.
It needs topsides and bottom paint and the boat will be a good, but plain, Triton. I'll be updating the interior photos today or tomorrow as I've had quite a few requests. I'll post a few here.Mike wrote:Jason your boat really doesn't look that bad. I've forgotten what your interior is like, but after a (not trivial) topsides job the exterior will be just dandy!
The bottom photo is the best of the before and after. The man in the photo started from the rudder and worked forward, so you can see where it's darker in the unwashed spots. It was mostly slime on the bottom. There were a few barnacles on the water line and the bottom of the keel had a lot of barnacles on it. I suspect that that area got one quick coat on the way back to the water during its last paintjob.Mike wrote:I assume that the powerwasher had done its thing prior to the pics, but still the bottom looks pretty good. Have you had it hauled since the storm, or do the 'gators scrub it for you?
The prop was also an established barnacle colony. The boat was quicker on the way back to the slip.
Last edited by Jason K on Sat Jan 20, 2007 9:09 am, edited 1 time in total.
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There appears to be entirely too much opportunity for the front sling to slide forward or for the aft sling to slide aft.
I'm accustomed to having the slings tied to each other VERY well with some rather stout line, on both sides of the boat. This is important on fullish-keeled CCA era boats, not so much on IOR and newer hullforms.
My comment above was primarily to the point that they only appear to be tied on one side, and quite loosely at that. Obviously #218 got up and down without incident, it just makes me nervous.
I'm accustomed to having the slings tied to each other VERY well with some rather stout line, on both sides of the boat. This is important on fullish-keeled CCA era boats, not so much on IOR and newer hullforms.
My comment above was primarily to the point that they only appear to be tied on one side, and quite loosely at that. Obviously #218 got up and down without incident, it just makes me nervous.
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I also usually see it done w/o the lines Figment is referring to, although most of the better places will at least put some kind of padding where the sling rubs the topsides. Probably not a concern w/ 218.
If the aft sling were under the keel, I probably wouldn't have taken a 2nd look. But, I too gasped a little when I first saw that.
Is that the standard aft sling point for a Triton?
If the aft sling were under the keel, I probably wouldn't have taken a 2nd look. But, I too gasped a little when I first saw that.
Is that the standard aft sling point for a Triton?
Tartan 27
Brooklyn, NY
Brooklyn, NY
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More Rambling
I'm always nervous at haulout time!Figment wrote:There appears to be entirely too much opportunity for the front sling to slide forward or for the aft sling to slide aft.
I'm accustomed to having the slings tied to each other VERY well with some rather stout line, on both sides of the boat. This is important on fullish-keeled CCA era boats, not so much on IOR and newer hullforms.
My comment above was primarily to the point that they only appear to be tied on one side, and quite loosely at that. Obviously #218 got up and down without incident, it just makes me nervous.
Here's how our yard handles Ariel, our CD36. The aft strap falls under the rudder heel without touching the rudder, and the forward strap lies in the "cutaway" - for lack of a better term. As Figment said, the straps are tied together by two stout lines on either side of the keel. Our yard also likes to lift Ariel slightly bow-down.

- Tim
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The reason the strap is where it is on Jason's Triton is because the older Tritons, like his, have the infamous "false keel" that is of such lightweight and inferior construction that lifting the boat from that area (as would be the norm), or even blocking it under that part of the keel, might damage the appendage. So semi-conventional Triton wisdom is to strap it beneath the counter like that.
Crushing or other damage to the false keel is commonplace, and there are many well-documented cases where improper handling has caused this sort of damage.
It's weird, but then Tritons are weird in a lot of ways.
Crushing or other damage to the false keel is commonplace, and there are many well-documented cases where improper handling has caused this sort of damage.
It's weird, but then Tritons are weird in a lot of ways.
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