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I think I am okay but just in case I am not...

Note: late model Triton.

Are the screws that protrude every few inches along the hull/deck joint integral to the joint or are they just holding the toe rail down? Can I remove the toe rail without impacting the joint?

-Britton

Those just hold the toerail down. The joint is glass together, which is what holds it.

Good luck removing the screws! I know Nathan found it easier to break apart the toerail and cut off the screws last year.

Thanks. Tim,

I kinda figured those screws weren't going to just back out with a little PB Blaster and kind words. My grinder is just itching to have a go at it. I saw what looked like lots of extra glassaround the joint, but I didn't know if that was tabbing or just a Pearson "fast build construction" technique. I didn't want to start ripping away only to see the hull/deck seam split and the hull sag away. That would be depressing.

On a tangent, which is okay since I started the thread anyway, having no money to buy stuff for the boat results in a LOT of demolition work just to keep busy...

My boat must be worth tons now. Just like they advertise on Ebay, "all cleared out and ready to customize to your personal tastes". Walking around inside got a little trickier with the cabin sole out but the access to the bilge now is truly amazing!

-Britton

From what I can tell the alberg 35 (a Pearson boat) and the triton are very similar in construction.

Hull and Deck are glassed together with toe rail "applied" and not structural.

Can anyone tell me how far the core goes under the stanchions away from the bulwarks? I have one sloppy stanchion and I am going to cut out the bottom skin and see what I have, but would love a little insight before I get it all ripped apart.

Ric

Here is a photo of a slice of a Triton deck. Note that in this sample, the coring extends nearly all the way to the toerail (at the left of the photo), though the core thickness tapers off as it nears the edge.

Your deck may be different, as the construction is somewhat different thanks to the wooden toerail, which necessitates a flat flange at the outer edge.

That was a fuuuuuuuun day!

WOW...that is handy.

Thanks!

Pretty much what I expect to find...

Once I am done sailing this year the stanchion is coming out and the patching begins!

Ric

Thought I would revive this thread momentarily...

Tim wrote:I know Nathan found it easier to break apart the toerail and cut off the screws last year.

So Nathan, does that mean you still have the screw ends protruding into the cabin? Did you install your new toerail by screwing as-per-original? I seem to remember 5200 helping the screws a bit too.

My winter cover interferes with my access to the toerail so my toerail project is on hold for another month or so. I was coming to the same conclusion that the only way to remove the toerails was to bust them off. Seems kind of a shame as I could probably re-use the material for trim somewhere else (I love re-using stuff. It makes me feel all New-England-Cheap-Yankee-like. I am not so sure that is a good thing).

Did you ever consider bolting the toerails down or is this overkill?

-Britton

bcooke wrote:So Nathan, does that mean you still have the screw ends protruding into the cabin? Did you install your new toerail by screwing as-per-original? I seem to remember 5200 helping the screws a bit too.

Only in a few locations. Most of the screws were easy to back out after I busted the rotten toerail away.

I did reinstall with screws and 5200. There are some screws that show after the new install. But it's all pretty much hidden by cabinetry. Or will be once the interior is done.

bcooke wrote: Did you ever consider bolting the toerails down or is this overkill?

I considered it for about 1/4 second. Access would be a treat. Maybe not so bad once the whole boat is gutted. But I think it's overkill. The toerail really isn't a structural piece. That is, it isn't holding the boat together on the late model boats.