Save-A-Boat - The Forum for Plastic Classic Rebuilds!

Wow. A lot going on there.
What's the shinscraper on the left?
How cool is that instrument panel?!
What's the panel just forward of the shifter?

Next time you find yourself on the foredeck with a tape measure, could you locate that chainpipe and vent for me?

Figment wrote:What's the shinscraper on the left?

That's a bracket for a table-mounting system like this one.

Figment wrote:How cool is that instrument panel?!

It's quite something, and it all works. The panel will be delicately worked around and not removed for this project--simply too much risk. The wiring behind is rather complex, and no changes to the boat's systems are planned in this refit. Removing, even temporarily, that housing is a can of worms that will remain firmly closed.

Figment wrote:What's the panel just forward of the shifter?

That's a clever little drawer that holds a fire extinguisher. I'll get you a photo of the open drawer a little later.

Just out of curiosity: Is that whole drawer in a molded box (I see a frame) so that any water that enters is kept out of the boat? Or how does that work?

Is Rachel being ignored?...

I was checking up on the Iota deck recoring and I had a couple of questions.

1.) What exactly is 17008 E-glass fabric? I am sure it is simple but I haven't seen it listed that way before - not that I shop around much.

2.) If the cloth roll had not been wide enough to cover the entire area, would the two adjoining pieces be overlapped at every layer (creating a bulge I would imagine) or simply laid up next to each other with a small strip tying the two sections together?

3.) How come it takes me all summer to do less than has been done on Iota in three weeks?...

-Britton

bcooke wrote:1.) What exactly is 1708 E-glass fabric?

17 oz. biax with mat backing.

bcooke wrote:2.) If the cloth roll had not been wide enough to cover the entire area, would the two adjoining pieces be overlapped at every layer (creating a bulge I would imagine) or simply laid up next to each other with a small strip tying the two sections together?

Simply butt the pieces together and stagger the seams on alternating layers.

bcooke wrote:3.) How come it takes me all summer to do less than has been done on Iota in three weeks?...

Smoke and mirrors.

3.)How come it takes me all summer to do less than has been done on Iota in three weeks?...

type A personality for sure. That stands for one project at "A" time. If I could only focus....

I sure do like how light colored topsides show off the curves. Very nice Tim!

Wow,

That's beautiful!!

Joe

Is it ok to idolize you just for a while..
that looks beautiful.

nice Tim, and I thought the boat looked good prior - maybe all that shine will inspire the need for new sails too

Yeah, to add to the chorus...I have to say that Tim's paint jobs are always worth drooling over, but this one looks especially amazing in photographs. Tim, you're a real inspiration!

Blech. Way too shiny.

Ha! I'm with fig. Obviously the shine is from the snow surrounding the hull. I have no snow where I am so my hull is not as shiny. And what's so big about shine anyway, I mean the fish don't like it because it hurts their eyes. The birds are distracted because of all the "special" refraction capabilities, and it makes me feel bad because I have not worked any where near as hard as Tim. Don't get me started on how shiny hull paint actually slows you down by making the light waves turn into particles, lets just say Quantum effects. Next thing you know we will be applauding competence. Sheesh, where's my AMC Matador.

r

post script: my tongue is approx. .246873 cm into the surface of my left buccinator muscle . google the matador to see ugly.

Hey!

If it's good enough for James Bond... Link

A sweet ride for sure, but I always preferred the Gremlin.

I was varnishing some locker doors in the shop yesterday and thought to myself how lucky I am that I can artfully leave bits of dust and the occasional run or sag that differentiates a classic plastic from a new production boat. Don't worry Tim, with practice you can get there.

What is the make and name of the color of that paint?

Pete

Triton 53 wrote:What is the make and name of the color of that paint?

Alexseal T 7153 Light Gray

Tim,

Thank you

Pete

Tim wrote:A sweet ride for sure, but I always preferred the Gremlin.

My Dad had a purple Gremlin that I wanted really bad when I was 16. But alas, we moved and he sold it. I still think they are way cool.

Tim, I had a question for you when I read the latest Iota update: I know from past threads why you chose butyl to bed the large ports, but I'm curious why you chose a different sealant (I think it was polysulfide) for the smaller, opening ports. ?

Rachel

Bluenose wrote:

Tim wrote:A sweet ride for sure, but I always preferred the Gremlin.

My Dad had a purple Gremlin that I wanted really bad when I was 16. But alas, we moved and he sold it. I still think they are way cool.

OT...when my grandmother passed away she left us a brown gremlin...3 speed. Horrific car. Steering wheel wheel offset 4 inches off your natural centerline when seated in the car. terrible brakes.

My dad spun it on the interstate one day in the rain. Promptly gave it to one of his tenants who said he need a car to get to a job so he could pay his rent. Secretly I think he was trying to kill him......

On topic.. IOTA looks FABULOUS!!!!

Rachel wrote:Tim, I had a question for you when I read the latest Iota update: I know from past threads why you chose butyl to bed the large ports, but I'm curious why you chose a different sealant (I think it was polysulfide) for the smaller, opening ports. ?

Rachel

Not to speak for Tim, but I think I would do the same. The larger ports will come into direct contact with their frames and the butyl won't attack the plastic. The smaller ports house the plastic in the metal frames and the plastic is isolated from the sealant. Thus the plastic won't be damaged by the polysulphide.

Personally, I find butyl messy and a pain to deal with. Given a choice, I would much prefer polysulfide.