mooring inspection/moving

windrose · Post by **windrose** » Thu Sep 14, 2006 3:00 pm

I would like to pull up my 300# mushroom mooring and inspect all the gear and probably move it a bit closer ..... ideas or suggestions on the best way to do this? Thanks.

Figment · Post by **Figment** » Thu Sep 14, 2006 3:08 pm

I think the best way is to hire it out. really.

I've seen it done on a calm day with a ladder frame of 2x10s laid across a pair of inflatable dinghies (use a pair of come-alongs to get it up taut and let the rising tide break the gear free), but man that was far from ideal and if it hadn't been a glassy-calm day it could have been disastrous.

hesper · Post by **hesper** » Fri Sep 15, 2006 2:34 pm

When I was younger and a pia at the club, I used to lift up and move my 300# mushroom regularly with my Bristol 26 by tying up tight on an incoming tide and waiting for the tide to pop it. The guy who pulled moorings did it with about a 20' open boat all by hand. If you can pop it on the incoming tide, move it into shore for inspection at low tide and then back out to the deep water, you'll have a pleasant enough afternoon.

jollyboat · Post by **jollyboat** » Fri Sep 15, 2006 4:14 pm

Hesper makes a interesting suggestion which though is very possible is also very dependent on type of bottom your 300# mooring is planted in. Being the deck hand on many a mooring boat, including my fathers from his Marin Contractor days, moorings can really take a good set in soft bottom material and then agian in shale, sandy and rocky bottom it is very easy to lift the moorings. If in a soft, muddy bottom it is common to to use a water jet system to blow away the surrounding material and decrease the suction that develops when the anchor is being lifted from the bottom. Kinda like loosing your shoes in the muck when you are clam digging in soft bottom. Another old scool method is to use a work boat with good cleats attached. At Low tide pull all the tackle and as much chain into the boat until the remaining chain is taught from the cleat to the anchor. Operate the work boat in a circular pattern around the mooring checking every so often to take up any slack that comes from this action. Eventually you will work the mooring free. If you do this on an incoming tide you can pull/drag the anchor to the beach when the tide is higher. Return to the beach at low tide to make your inspections and repairs. Incidently, after hours of debate in the business if you do the math it is less expensive to hire a pro. To pull, inspect chain and worn fittings and chain on a 300# anchor in reasonable shape could cost as much as 400-500 dollars - thats got to be the cheapest 'real' insurance going. Good luck and may the force be with you.