Gelatinous 2-part slow cure epoxy?

[FloatingMoneyPit]

I picked up a Piranhamax on the cheap to aid and abet my burgeoning fishing interest and act as a buddy for the depthsounder (I can't be mad at the occasionally spastic ds readings if the fishfinder corroborates it).

For in-hull transducer installation, the instructions recommend using a clear, 2 part, slow cure epoxy. To me this means unthickened West or MAS. But without a filler, how do I create a semi-solid blob that maintains shape while it cures? I guess I could do the whole PVC-and-mineral-oil thing as seen in Casey et al. But it seems much easier just to plop a blob of goo on the hull, smoosh in the 'ducer, and go sailing. I wonder if anyone knows of maybe a non-marine epoxy that fits the bill?

[windrose]

How about what they call "plumber's epoxy" or underwater epoxy, it comes in a stick like play-dough with the hardner in the center. You cut off however much you want and knead it to a uniform color to mix in the hardner and use it like putty. You can get it at any hardware place or marine shop.

[catamount]

I made "dams" with duct tape to pour the WEST epoxy into when setting the transducer for my depth sounder. I'll take a picture this afternoon...

[FloatingMoneyPit]

The duct dams idea sounds like a winner. It doesn't have to look good, as you've just reminded me. And i guess duct tape will tear away pretty easily from the cured epoxy, especially if there's enough blush. Thanks for the ideas!
Although, I guess it doesn't matter since it obviously worked for you, I wonder if so much heat can be generated during the cure that it damages the transducer? Only one way to find out.
A picture is always appreciated if you get a chance, catamount.

[Summersdawn]

I used the dam method as well. My dam was a tube put in place with plasticene. Worked well. I didn't have any problems with heat. I think lying against a cool hull helps act as a heat sink.

Un-thickened epoxy is a good material to use for this, as the density is very similar to water and the fiberglass. By adding filler to thicken the epoxy, you could effect the signal, negatively impacting the effectivness of the unit.

To find a good location to put the transducer (ie - one where it will shoot through the hull fine, without accidently hitting bubbles in the layup), I filled a plastic bag with water, hooked the DS up, put the transducer in the bag, and held it against the hull. You can then slide the bag around the hull until you find a spot that gives you a god reading.

[catamount]

Note that I was using 3M's new "clear" duct tape. I folded 1/4 to 1/3 of the tape edge over on itself, and used the remaining 3/4 to 2/3 of the tape to adhere this "wall" to the bilge bottom. I made two sides, and then I cut the two ends to fit in between the sides. A few bits of tape to hold the sides and ends together, pour in the Epoxy, and hold the transducer in place until it kicks... I never got around to pulling the tape...