Starting on Triton #101 from the top

[kempmd]

#101 has been in my custody for three years and now its time to make some upgrades. The standing rigging is original with a compressed deck under the step. As soon as I pull the mast I have to repair the compression damage so I will cut the top off and replace with solid fiberglass but how big an area? The cabin doesn't sound as bad as the decks so my game plan is to cut across the top of the beam an area that is roughly square to provide a solid footing for the stepped mast. Since I have built wood kayaks with a lot of glass work I have some experience with the material but do I just use 4 oz weave glass mat to lay up the area? I want to sail her this spring so this an ongoing floating restoration and keep my bank account afloat too.
Thanks, Kemp

[MikeD]

Other than the obvious resources here: Tim's sites and others, the Yahoo Triton list has a rrecent thread about this topic as well. Here's what a fellow with a renegade did: http://www.renegade27.org/mast.html

Edit: Sorry, I guess he only addressed a rotted mast step, not the compressed deck, etc.

[Jason K]

Hi Kemp,

The mast compresion, as you know, likely comes from two sources: the deterioration of the core underneath the step itself as well as a compression beam that runs longitudinally by your main bulkhead. I don't think that glassing the lenght of the beam will be sufficient.

I would suggest removing the core from underneath the mast step and filling that in with solid glass. For the compession beam, you has a number of options that run from replacing to reinforcing. I haven't had to do that particular repair, but I'm sure others will chime in with advice. There are a couple of threads on it as well.

In regards to how big an area to replace with solid glass, I would replace enough to accomodate the step and any wiring that will be passing through the deck. Of course, if you have rotten core in that area, this would be the time to replace it.

[Tim]

#101 has been in my custody for three years and now its time to make some upgrades. The standing rigging is original with a compressed deck under the step. As soon as I pull the mast I have to repair the compression damage so I will cut the top off and replace with solid fiberglass but how big an area? The cabin doesn't sound as bad as the decks so my game plan is to cut across the top of the beam an area that is roughly square to provide a solid footing for the stepped mast. Since I have built wood kayaks with a lot of glass work I have some experience with the material but do I just use 4 oz weave glass mat to lay up the area? I want to sail her this spring so this an ongoing floating restoration and keep my bank account afloat too.
Thanks, Kemp

Kemp,

For reference, here's what I did to correct what was a similar situation on Glissando in 2003:

http://www.triton381.com/projects/small ... ststep.htm

Start with a relatively small square; you choose the size as you see fit, but you can always expand it if you find that the core is bad around the edges. 18x18 or so is probably more than adequate as a starting point, depending on the size of your mast step.

You want to use something heavier than 4 oz cloth to fill this void. Such light cloth would take forever to lay up in the thickness required to replace the core (over 3/8" total thickness. Pick up some heavy biax or some such, which will build up much more quickly and is also much stronger to boot. Also, be sure to build up your solid glass in several applications, as all this resin at once would become overly hot during curing. 3-4 layers of 22 oz. biax would be about the max at once.

If your mast beam beneath is sagging, now is the time to replace that as well. A laminated wooden beam is an easy and fun project. Here's how I built mine, also in 2003:

http://www.triton381.com/projects/small ... stbeam.htm

Good luck!

[kempmd]

Thanks for the insights. As to the type of glass, I have only used the light weights involved in wood kayak design so, 22oz biax and of course applied at different intervals because of the heat. Believe me, I have been kicked by epoxy through latex gloves before. As for the main beam, it has a reinforced steal angle iron under the center that appears more than adequate to the job. I am going to give it a much closer inspection since the bottom skin appears down on top of the beam just under the mast step. Even with the condition of the top skin in compression the topsides don't have the same dead sound that the decks have due to the water intrusion. Hopefully when I start cutting, the evidence of soaked core will not be there.
Don't you wish that boat repair was more like opening a gift at Christmas and not, "oh good grief......".

[Tim]

Don't you wish that boat repair was more like opening a gift at Christmas and not, "oh good grief......".

I don't know...sometimes Christmas gifts can be like that too!

I am going to give it a much closer inspection since the bottom skin appears down on top of the beam just under the mast step.

Most Tritons seem to have a slight flat spot in the deck molding (inner skin) in this area that is unrelated to deck or mast beam compression, but of course the area bears careful inspection regardless. Just be aware that perhaps this molded flat might account for some of what you're seeing, in case you can't get it to go away.

[bcooke]

When I recored under the mast step with solid glass I started with cloth but as Tims says, it takes an awful lot of layers and time to make any progress. I switched to biax after the first couple of layers and had it done in a day or so. I don't think you need to recore an area much bigger than the footprint of the mast step. I could be wrong here but filling a larger area won't make the structure only stiffer. The solid core is only to pass the strain straight down onto the beam, not to spread the load across the cabin top. Like Jason mentioned, if the area is big enough to run your wires through as well then you will have eliminated another point of water entry into the coring and have set yourself up for an easier mast rewiring in the future .

As for the mast beam, I think those steel reinforcements work pretty well but they don't look nearly as good as a laminated beam. Seeing a laminated beam in someone else's boat did it for me. If you have done any epoxy work before you will find it to be pretty easy and very rewarding.

When you say the standing rigging is original are you including the stays themselves? I don't think the wire was intended to last that long (#101... 46 years old?) so I would keep a close eye on them and would probably schedule a replacement time. They may look okay on the surface but the metal could be fatigued to the point of imminent failure. I worry too much sometimes so take my advice for what its worth :-)

Have fun!

-Britton

[kempmd]

When the local rigger looked at the stays and turnbuckles he believed that they were original and since I had no paperwork from past maintenance logs to show otherwise we are definitely replacing it. I love to sail but I love to sail without worry too. As for the US Steel bracing of the beam, yes its ugly and I will probably take it out once I start the patch work.