removing the mast jumpers
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removing the mast jumpers
Has there been any discussions or has anyone removed the jumper struts from the Triton rig to experiment with rig tuning.
Brian
Jollyboat, Triton #466
Sepi,Triton #346 (1st, Triton)
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Jollyboat, Triton #466
Sepi,Triton #346 (1st, Triton)
No Quarter
- Tim
- Shipwright Extraordinaire
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I sailed part of the season without the jumpers once--not by design, but because the jumpers were damaged.
I was surprised how much the mast pumped when the jumpers were gone, once the wind kicked up to the 15 knot+ range. The jumpers provide more support than I once thought. I didn't like the way the mast moved, and avoided sailing in those conditions for the remainder of that season (only a month).
Based on this experience, I would recommend against removing the jumpers. However, I would suggest that you consider adding turnbuckles to the lower end of the jumper stays to allow for easier adjustment if you want to play around with the rig tuning; then you need only go to the spreaders to adjust, rather than all the way up and fight with those silly nuts that pass for adjustment in the original design.
I was surprised how much the mast pumped when the jumpers were gone, once the wind kicked up to the 15 knot+ range. The jumpers provide more support than I once thought. I didn't like the way the mast moved, and avoided sailing in those conditions for the remainder of that season (only a month).
Based on this experience, I would recommend against removing the jumpers. However, I would suggest that you consider adding turnbuckles to the lower end of the jumper stays to allow for easier adjustment if you want to play around with the rig tuning; then you need only go to the spreaders to adjust, rather than all the way up and fight with those silly nuts that pass for adjustment in the original design.
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thanks Tim, that is very helpfull information. I am asking because with fractional rigs it can be difficult to achieve headstay tension which leads to deflection which in turn means a decrease in windward performance. To make matters more of a challenge a fractional setup has less windward abillity than that of a mast head rig. ( though this point was contested by Tom Potter in his recorded "interview"about the Tritons and Alberg was peaved when he found that first MH boats were being built by Aerodyne Marine without his drawing the specs - later he did) I installed a backstay adjuster on 346 - this helped to a degree but the jumpers very much prevented me from flattening out the main. On 346 I built a very flat main to help with weather work in the SF Bay but to my surprise a flatter main is exactly what you do not want on any Alberg design. Instead the preferred shape is rather full but this can a problem to windward. In one of the Triton bullitens there is a recomendation to adjust the jumpers such that mast is bent forward before backstay tention is applied - the forward bend is then resolved with backstay tenstion applied - to me that sounds off. I will take your advice and install turn buckles and try different tensions. Sorry a little long winded.
Brian
Jollyboat, Triton #466
Sepi,Triton #346 (1st, Triton)
No Quarter
Jollyboat, Triton #466
Sepi,Triton #346 (1st, Triton)
No Quarter
- Tim
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I have read the tuning recommendations you mention on the NTA site. In my opinion, the instructions are a bit extreme for anything but serious racing: too much rig tension, which is just unnecessary for most sailing. (And I've said before that I think "serious racing" and Tritons are mutually exclusive.) In general, the more one tensions any single stay, the more all the other stays may require tensioning in order to bring the rig into tune.
That said, the jumpers should be quite tight to allow the headstay to be tensioned to an acceptable level. I normally tighten the jumpers (with the mast on the ground) so that some amount of forward bend is induced, though less than that indicated in the NTA tuning recommendations.
Then, when the mast is stepped, tensioning the backstay until the mast is straight fore and aft (removing the forward pre-bend) tends to bring the headstay satisfactorily tight. Without significant tension on the jumper stays, the backstay cannot be tensioned enough to bring the headstay fairly tight.
The Triton spar section wasn't designed to allow for significant bending to massage sail shape, the way that newer spar sections are. I think it's best to find an overall tuning profile that covers all bases adequately.
For instructive purposes, what did you find the flat main you built did to the performance of the boat? Why did you determine it to be the wrong choice? It sounds like the reasons could be beneficial to all.
That said, the jumpers should be quite tight to allow the headstay to be tensioned to an acceptable level. I normally tighten the jumpers (with the mast on the ground) so that some amount of forward bend is induced, though less than that indicated in the NTA tuning recommendations.
Then, when the mast is stepped, tensioning the backstay until the mast is straight fore and aft (removing the forward pre-bend) tends to bring the headstay satisfactorily tight. Without significant tension on the jumper stays, the backstay cannot be tensioned enough to bring the headstay fairly tight.
The Triton spar section wasn't designed to allow for significant bending to massage sail shape, the way that newer spar sections are. I think it's best to find an overall tuning profile that covers all bases adequately.
For instructive purposes, what did you find the flat main you built did to the performance of the boat? Why did you determine it to be the wrong choice? It sounds like the reasons could be beneficial to all.
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Brian
I tune my rig with a pretty heavy prebend maybe not 4 inches but close. It was the only way I got a tight headstay. I followed the reccomendations in the nta going fast section. I noticed a difference from prior years when I did not have the pre bend. I also think it reduced weather helm by allowing the masthead to remain further forward and still maintain decent headstay tension and a flat main. I didn't feel that I was putting undue tension on any of the stays using this method.
I think the performance of any 7/8s triton would improve with some prebend from the jumpers. I just don't see how you can get a tight headstay without curving the mast aft unless you prebend the jumpers. I Probably wouldn't have climbed the mast and tightened the jumpers if I didn't race. That being said I am very glad I did. It was sure nice not to have a loose headstay and to have less weather helm.
I don't have the turnbuckles and it is a real bear to adjust without it.
we used to moor near your old boat when we were in noank. what was the origin of her name,sepibejezus?
Brock Richardson
#522 Good Goose
I tune my rig with a pretty heavy prebend maybe not 4 inches but close. It was the only way I got a tight headstay. I followed the reccomendations in the nta going fast section. I noticed a difference from prior years when I did not have the pre bend. I also think it reduced weather helm by allowing the masthead to remain further forward and still maintain decent headstay tension and a flat main. I didn't feel that I was putting undue tension on any of the stays using this method.
I think the performance of any 7/8s triton would improve with some prebend from the jumpers. I just don't see how you can get a tight headstay without curving the mast aft unless you prebend the jumpers. I Probably wouldn't have climbed the mast and tightened the jumpers if I didn't race. That being said I am very glad I did. It was sure nice not to have a loose headstay and to have less weather helm.
I don't have the turnbuckles and it is a real bear to adjust without it.
we used to moor near your old boat when we were in noank. what was the origin of her name,sepibejezus?
Brock Richardson
#522 Good Goose
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