I did a search, 'cause I'm sure someone will have asked this before but couldn't find it.
I have decided, a bit spontaneously, to varnish the easily removable teak on the exterior of "Aquapella".
I've read and read different opinions on the wisdom of that but I've done it now so no turning back.
I think that if I can remove these pieces each year for a few more coats it won't be too bad to keep, since there really isn't that much of it. (U.S. 25)
What is the best choice of sealant for something that will be removed yearly?
Odd, but I've always tried to seal forever, this is new ground for me.
Feetup
Oh pleeze, another sealant question...
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Jason K
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Ideally, no sealant at all.
It depends on what you're removing. For example, I installed my coamings with no sealant in anticipation of removing them at least once a year to keep up the varnish.
I've renewed the varnish since reinstalling the coamings and doing so on the boat is really pretty easy. It is the initial work - the laborious prep and the buildup of many coats - that justifies removing the wood. The few maintenance coats you need to do each year doesn't justify the hassle of removing, in my opinion.
The best sealant, though, to answer your question, will be the one that is easiest to remove. You'll have to apply new sealant to a clean surface with each installation. I'd recommend a polysulfide sealant, such as BoatLife Life Caulk, but others may have better recommendations.
I'll stick by the suggestion to reinstall and then varnish the pieces on the boat, though.
It depends on what you're removing. For example, I installed my coamings with no sealant in anticipation of removing them at least once a year to keep up the varnish.
I've renewed the varnish since reinstalling the coamings and doing so on the boat is really pretty easy. It is the initial work - the laborious prep and the buildup of many coats - that justifies removing the wood. The few maintenance coats you need to do each year doesn't justify the hassle of removing, in my opinion.
The best sealant, though, to answer your question, will be the one that is easiest to remove. You'll have to apply new sealant to a clean surface with each installation. I'd recommend a polysulfide sealant, such as BoatLife Life Caulk, but others may have better recommendations.
I'll stick by the suggestion to reinstall and then varnish the pieces on the boat, though.
- Tim
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Polysulfide is your best bet. It remains quite removable. Since you're removing and rebedding each year, don't overdo it with the sealant on the pieces you remove--but don't underdo it either.
Another option is a traditional bedding compound like Dolfinite.

Another option is a traditional bedding compound like Dolfinite.
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Hirilondë
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If you really have exterior trim you want to remove annually then I agree that Dolfinite will be the easiest to remove repeatedly.
As much as I like the exterior parts of my boat that can be removed for varnishing some parts just don't seem worth it to me either. Factor in that you may damage the pieces or at least strip out the screw holes and you have some minuses besides the hassle of removal. When I made all new exterior wood pieces last winter I did however dry fit them all and take them home for many many coats of varnish before installation. If you are either making new pieces and hence dry fitting them, or wooding your existing ones then removing them may very well be worth the effort.
You couldn't get me to remove my toe rail, taff rail, cockpit combing or dorade boxes now if you tried :)
As much as I like the exterior parts of my boat that can be removed for varnishing some parts just don't seem worth it to me either. Factor in that you may damage the pieces or at least strip out the screw holes and you have some minuses besides the hassle of removal. When I made all new exterior wood pieces last winter I did however dry fit them all and take them home for many many coats of varnish before installation. If you are either making new pieces and hence dry fitting them, or wooding your existing ones then removing them may very well be worth the effort.
You couldn't get me to remove my toe rail, taff rail, cockpit combing or dorade boxes now if you tried :)
Dave Finnegan
builder of Spindrift 9N #521 'Wingë'
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Gresham’s Law of information: Bad information drives out good. No matter how long ago a correction for a particular error may have appeared in print or online, it never seems to catch up with the ever-widening distribution of the error.
builder of Spindrift 9N #521 'Wingë'
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Gresham’s Law of information: Bad information drives out good. No matter how long ago a correction for a particular error may have appeared in print or online, it never seems to catch up with the ever-widening distribution of the error.