Reefing with Sliding gooseneck

Ryan · Post by **Ryan** » Tue Apr 24, 2007 8:18 pm

The gooseneck on my boat connects to the mast by sliding into the sail track that is made into the mast (it rests below the mast gate that the sail slides go into). A sail stop keeps the slides above the gate. Normally, the height of the boom is determined by a downhaul line attached to the gooseneck that is tied off to a cleat mounted on the mast below the boom, and the mainsail halyard. The problem I am running into is when it is time to reef (two line reefing system), the main halyard is loosened and the boom slides down until it physically rests on the downhaul cleat. This puts the boom too low to pull the tack reef cringle down to the boom. I could always just put another sail stop under the boom to keep it from falling, but that just doesn't seem like the "right" way to do it. How have others handled this type of setup? Thanks for any info.

Ryan

CharlieJ · Post by **CharlieJ** » Tue Apr 24, 2007 8:25 pm

Yep- mine does too. Then I lash the reefing grommet to the boom and rehoist so the boom goes back where it belongs.

Peter · Post by **Peter** » Tue Apr 24, 2007 9:45 pm

Mine is the same way, too, but there is an additional piece of line attached to the gooseneck that hooks to a small cleat above the boom, allowing the boom to be supported at the desired height. One more line to fiddle with, but it works for me.

Quetzalsailor · Post by **Quetzalsailor** » Wed Apr 25, 2007 8:43 am

Our NE 38 was built with roller reefing on the boom, the gooseneck slides on its own track, there's a downhaul and cleat, there are two heavy hooks on the gooseneck, the sail has luff grommets fitted with dacron tapes and rings, the boat is now rigged for slab reefing. I release the halyard, drop the sail, drop the rings over the hooks, drag the leach lines snug with the winch on the boom, rehoist the main until the boom's downhaul is snug again.

We have a gate in the track but it's pretty bulletproof. The slides pass on down on it as the sail is reefed. Nothing travels so far as to make any of this tough.

Figment · Post by **Figment** » Wed Apr 25, 2007 9:01 am

I had this problem with my second reef. The stacked-up slugs in the track were just enough to prevent easy hooking of the reef tack. I moved the slug below the reef tack a bit farther down the luff of the sail to give things a bit more reach. It looked somewhat goofy if you knew what to look for, but it had no discernable affect on sail shape.

From your description, it also seems like your gooseneck perhaps slides too far, which in my opinion is fairly common with these sliding rigs. How much travel do you ever really NEED to achieve luff tension in a modern dacron sail?
Limiting the travel of the gooseneck is easy. Remove one of the track mounting screws and replace it with a pan-head screw and a pair of washers so it stands proud of the track surface.

Post by **dasein668** » Wed Apr 25, 2007 9:08 am

I also have a tack hook on the gooseneck. Lower the main sufficient to put the reefing cringle over the hook, tension the reefing line, rehoist to appropriate height, and tension the luff with the downhaul.

Ryan · Post by **Ryan** » Wed Apr 25, 2007 10:12 am

If my gooseneck fitting attached to the mast via T-track, I'd use Figment's suggestion in a quick minute and be done with it. My gooseneck actually fits into the sail track at the gate and slides down while the sail slugs fit in the track and slide up as the sail is hoisted. Once at full hoist, a machine screw threads into a hole at the top of the mast gate to keep the slugs from sliding down and falling out of the mast gate when the sail is lowered. The sail is fitted with a jackline to allow the reef cringle to come down to the boom's "normal" height without having to remove the machine screw. The forward reefing line (no hooks on my gooseneck) attaches to a padeye on the port side of the mast, runs up through the reefing cringle and down to a cleat on the starboard side of the mast. The padeye and cleat are slightly below the "normal" height of the boom. So, when you release the halyard, the boom falls down to the downhaul cleat (around 8" or so). You tension the reefing line, but this can only bring the reef cringle down to the height of the padeye/cleat and since these are attached to the mast, tensioning the halyard doesn't pull the boom back into place anymore. It seems that my options are to lash the reefing cringle to the boom like CharlieJ does, or move the reefing hardware to the boom instead of the mast so the foot of the sail and the boom can be adjusted as one, just like they are when the sail is at full size. Maybe that sail stop under the boom to "fix" it in position isn't such a crummy idea after all...

bhartley · Post by **bhartley** » Wed Apr 25, 2007 10:49 am

Ryan,

On Ariel we have the same problem. We use a sail stop normally to keep the gooseneck from dropping into the downhaul cleat when we drop the main. The other thing we do if there's time is simply undo the downhaul and tie it to the spinnaker bail (like the cleat someone else suggested only not as tidy). This also helps keep it from dropping too far.

When we reef, we need to take off 2 slides so there has to be some room to move. Our gooseneck is a little stubborn sometimes and simply pulling on the halyard after reefing isn't going to move it back up. One hand has to hold the halyard while you use your knee and free hand to wiggle the gooseneck back up.

I take it you got launched last weekend in the goregeous weather. We're still working on the bottom. Keep an eye on our slip for us!

Bly

Peter · Post by **Peter** » Wed Apr 25, 2007 11:52 am

I find that a shot of one's favorite lubricant helps loads when struggling with sail slides and sliding goose necks, no matter what the configuration.

Ryan · Post by **Ryan** » Wed Apr 25, 2007 12:14 pm

Bly

I think I will give the sail stop idea a go, it certainly is the easiest to implement and reverse if need be.

We raised the mast at the State Park courtesy dock two weekends ago. It went very smooth and only took an hour from tying up to the dock to casting away the lines an motoring back to the marina. It sure is nice to have the boat in one piece again!

I'll keep an out on your slip, it really stands out as there is usually NO empty slots this time of year. Good luck on the bottom!

CharlieJ · Post by **CharlieJ** » Wed Apr 25, 2007 3:25 pm

Sounds to me like you need to build a mast gate to close off the opening so the slugs CAN'T come out when you lower the sail, nor can the gooseneck- it just makes it like a continuous track. You can do that with a chunk of aluminum threshold material screwed to the side of the mast- it has a little bead on it the pretty closely matches the bead inside the sail slot. Install the slugs, put the gate in place and tighten down a couple screws. I made this one slotted and used thumb screws so you just loosen it and slide it over so the slugs go in, then slide it back and retighten.

Quetzalsailor · Post by **Quetzalsailor** » Fri Apr 27, 2007 10:40 am

Charlie's comment about using aluminum threshold material is right on target. Architectural aluminum alloy is good for the marine environment. It taps and machines easily. And it's relatively easy to scrounge.

I would suggest that the cheapie thresholds bought at the Despot and Lowes might be a lesser alloy. Scrounge an old door or frame.

JonnyBoats · Post by **JonnyBoats** » Fri Apr 27, 2007 10:51 am

Our NE 38 was built with roller reefing on the boom, the gooseneck slides on its own track, there's a downhaul and cleat, there are two heavy hooks on the gooseneck, the sail has luff grommets fitted with dacron tapes and rings, the boat is now rigged for slab reefing.

Whould you have a photo of this setup that you could post?

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Reefing with Sliding gooseneck

Reefing with Sliding gooseneck

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