Brush Cleaning
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Capn_Tom
- Skilled Systems Installer
- Posts: 194
- Joined: Thu Jan 12, 2006 6:04 pm
- Boat Type: Westsail 32
- Location: Erlanger, Ky
Brush Cleaning
Any good advice on cleaning two part epoxy and polyurethane paint from brushes. I always end up with a residue that does not rinse away and ruins the brush. At $20+ for a decent brush this is more than frustrating.
The board does not cut itself short!
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Figment
- Damned Because It's All Connected
- Posts: 2847
- Joined: Tue Apr 08, 2003 9:32 am
- Boat Name: Triton
- Boat Type: Grand Banks 42
- Location: L.I. Sound
Pour a quarter-inch of the appropriate solvent into a quart-size mixing cup. Work the bristles as though you're painting the bottom of the cup. Discard the solvent and shake the brush dry.
Repeat as necessary until the solvent stays clear.
If the brush is to be re-used in the near future, wrap the bristles in plastic.
This works about half the time, but it's better than not at all.
I love foam brushes.
Repeat as necessary until the solvent stays clear.
If the brush is to be re-used in the near future, wrap the bristles in plastic.
This works about half the time, but it's better than not at all.
I love foam brushes.
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Hirilondë
- Master of the Arcane
- Posts: 1317
- Joined: Thu Dec 28, 2006 8:50 am
- Boat Name: Hirilondë
- Boat Type: 1967 Pearson Renegade
- Location: Charlestown, RI
A lot depends on your definition of clean. Some people say there is no way to get a brush "clean" after doing a 2-part paint. The problem being that what ever is left on the brush is going to cure. The now, solids, will break off during the next use and end up on the boat. The solvents/cleaners for these paints are expensive which raises the price for what will be considered a disposable brush.
edit: I always try to get all of my primer coats, then all of my finish coats within the hot recoat windows. If I wrap my brush (Ziplok bags work well) and refrigerate (freeze is even better) between coats it I can work for a couple days without cleaning at all. Then get a second brush for the top coats.
edit: I always try to get all of my primer coats, then all of my finish coats within the hot recoat windows. If I wrap my brush (Ziplok bags work well) and refrigerate (freeze is even better) between coats it I can work for a couple days without cleaning at all. Then get a second brush for the top coats.
Dave Finnegan
builder of Spindrift 9N #521 'Wingë'
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Gresham’s Law of information: Bad information drives out good. No matter how long ago a correction for a particular error may have appeared in print or online, it never seems to catch up with the ever-widening distribution of the error.
builder of Spindrift 9N #521 'Wingë'
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Gresham’s Law of information: Bad information drives out good. No matter how long ago a correction for a particular error may have appeared in print or online, it never seems to catch up with the ever-widening distribution of the error.
- Tim
- Shipwright Extraordinaire
- Posts: 5708
- Joined: Tue Apr 01, 2003 6:39 pm
- Boat Name: Glissando
- Boat Type: Pearson Triton
- Location: Whitefield, ME
- Contact:
A good paint job is well worth the cost of as many new brushes and roller covers as you need, I think. Paint that might cost $300/gallon all told (base, converter, reducer) is worth a few $20 brushes to apply properly.
That said, keeping the uncleaned brushes wrapped and refrigerated works amazingly well and will allow you to reuse the brush several times successfully. Just be sure none of the old paint is curing in the brush.
That said, keeping the uncleaned brushes wrapped and refrigerated works amazingly well and will allow you to reuse the brush several times successfully. Just be sure none of the old paint is curing in the brush.
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Forum Founder--No Longer Participating
Forum Founder--No Longer Participating