Hello All!
Is anybody known where can I find the following information?
I find some technical recommendation for building or buying a small boat (approx. 9m. (30 foot) length) for ocean purpose. In technical recommendation I mean the durable of hull material, toughness of frame construction, what a steady-stay diagram is good and what is bad for ocean trip …
Sorry for my English, Thanks for replay, Andrey.
technical recommendation for small boat
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Tim
- Shipwright Extraordinaire
- Posts: 5708
- Joined: Tue Apr 01, 2003 6:39 pm
- Boat Name: Glissando
- Boat Type: Pearson Triton
- Location: Whitefield, ME
- Contact:
I don't think there are any hard and fast rules in this area. The success or failure of any boat at sea is highly subjective, and is as (or more) dependent on the skills of the operator as on the design or construction of the boat in the first place.
Any hull material can be suitable--fiberglass, steel, aluminum, or wood. Even ferrocement. But the answer is never as simple as that.
I suggest you look at any given boat on its own merits and try to fit its suitability against your own needs. There is no "magic" boat perfectly suited to this purpose, I think. Boats of all kinds have made successful ocean passages; boats of all kinds have also failed to make successful ocean passages.
In the broadest terms, if a certain structural member or installation looks strong, then it probably is strong. Of course exceptions apply, but fewer things that appear to be strong break, whereas more things that appear to be weak do tend to break.
With fiberglass in particular, the quality of the laminations is more important in the end than the thickness of the laminations. Thick is usually good, but some thick laminates are weaker than their more modern--and thinner--counterparts. Again: look at any candidate boat with an eye towards what you need, and accept or discard it on its own merits.
Some basic designs are considered more sea-kindly than others. In general, boats of heavier displacement probably provide a more comfortable ride at sea. This may translate to their being safer, but it might not, either. Longer keels are usually easier to control than short, deep fin keels. But either type works just fine.
Rigging should be strong, and particular attention should be paid to the terminal fittings and chainplate attachments, where most failures occur. Rigging wires do fail, but most drastic failures occur because a fitting breaks. Standard wire usually gives some indication of impending failure (not always). Prudence and sound judgment are the rules of the day, I think. Oversized rigging, while popular, is not strictly necessary--again, because the wires are rarely the point of failure. Fittings are much more likely to ultimately fail.
A competent surveyor in your area who understands what your needs and desires are may be your best ally.
If you have more specific information, feel free to share, and you're sure to get additional thoughts from me and others.
Any hull material can be suitable--fiberglass, steel, aluminum, or wood. Even ferrocement. But the answer is never as simple as that.
I suggest you look at any given boat on its own merits and try to fit its suitability against your own needs. There is no "magic" boat perfectly suited to this purpose, I think. Boats of all kinds have made successful ocean passages; boats of all kinds have also failed to make successful ocean passages.
In the broadest terms, if a certain structural member or installation looks strong, then it probably is strong. Of course exceptions apply, but fewer things that appear to be strong break, whereas more things that appear to be weak do tend to break.
With fiberglass in particular, the quality of the laminations is more important in the end than the thickness of the laminations. Thick is usually good, but some thick laminates are weaker than their more modern--and thinner--counterparts. Again: look at any candidate boat with an eye towards what you need, and accept or discard it on its own merits.
Some basic designs are considered more sea-kindly than others. In general, boats of heavier displacement probably provide a more comfortable ride at sea. This may translate to their being safer, but it might not, either. Longer keels are usually easier to control than short, deep fin keels. But either type works just fine.
Rigging should be strong, and particular attention should be paid to the terminal fittings and chainplate attachments, where most failures occur. Rigging wires do fail, but most drastic failures occur because a fitting breaks. Standard wire usually gives some indication of impending failure (not always). Prudence and sound judgment are the rules of the day, I think. Oversized rigging, while popular, is not strictly necessary--again, because the wires are rarely the point of failure. Fittings are much more likely to ultimately fail.
A competent surveyor in your area who understands what your needs and desires are may be your best ally.
If you have more specific information, feel free to share, and you're sure to get additional thoughts from me and others.
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Guest
Hello Tim,
Thanks for the answer!
I living on the riverside of Volga, and never saw a real ocean storm.
In this reason is very difficult to appreciate toughness of material at glance, although I have experience of technical area.
I looking for a digits, or some practical rules. For example I know that 40-60 ton boat must to have metal hull thickness not less than 6 mm. By the way, what is material and thickness of hull yours boat? : -)
About fiberglass and aluminum - it’s too expensive, more suitable seems some “breather” with epoxy resin (vacuum bagging). But how to understand is it durable enough?
Best regard, Andrey.
Thanks for the answer!
I living on the riverside of Volga, and never saw a real ocean storm.
In this reason is very difficult to appreciate toughness of material at glance, although I have experience of technical area.
I looking for a digits, or some practical rules. For example I know that 40-60 ton boat must to have metal hull thickness not less than 6 mm. By the way, what is material and thickness of hull yours boat? : -)
About fiberglass and aluminum - it’s too expensive, more suitable seems some “breather” with epoxy resin (vacuum bagging). But how to understand is it durable enough?
Best regard, Andrey.
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dasein668
- Boateg
- Posts: 1637
- Joined: Thu Apr 03, 2003 9:09 am
- Boat Name: Dasein
- Boat Type: Pearson Triton 668
- Location: Portland, Maine
- Contact:
Hi Andrey,
Where along the Volga are you located?
With respect to hull thickness, there is a large amount of variation seen among Tritons. I have a "newer" Triton, hull number 668 and I have found that my hull is substantially thinner than ealier hull numbers. the thickest sections of hull that I have found on my boat are about 1/2 inch (something like 11 or 12 mm?) near the turn of the bilge. Topsides near the hull deck joint on my boat is approx 6 to 8mm. (1/4 inch or a bit more.)
Where along the Volga are you located?
With respect to hull thickness, there is a large amount of variation seen among Tritons. I have a "newer" Triton, hull number 668 and I have found that my hull is substantially thinner than ealier hull numbers. the thickest sections of hull that I have found on my boat are about 1/2 inch (something like 11 or 12 mm?) near the turn of the bilge. Topsides near the hull deck joint on my boat is approx 6 to 8mm. (1/4 inch or a bit more.)
Nathan
dasein668.com
dasein668.com
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AndreyN