Deck Gouges & Gel-Coat Repair

[Maine Sail]

Hi All,

Last fall my boat was hit in the mooring field in Flamouth, Maine by a boat that broke free of its mooring. The damage is light with no structural repair needed. I've been waiting all winter for my boat yard to begin repairs but they have been to busy and are behind schedule. At this point I'm ready to try the repairs myself. I have the factory Gel-Coat for both the non skid color and the hull and deck. I'm not concerned about it matching because the boat is a 2005 model and the Gel-Coat came from the same factory batch.

What steps should I take to begin this repair? I'll also have to match the diamond pattern for the non skid. Do I voer fill and use a block of wood in the on an angle to sand a pattern that matches? Should I use West System or a general "bondo type" filler such as 3M from Hamilton's? If I use West System which hardner do you guys recommend for out door use this time of year? I can use a heat lamp to slightly warm the area I'm working on? Which filler do I use etc. etc..

Should I thin and spray the Gel-Coat on with a Preval or just brush it on? Should I mix the wax in with the Gel or spray it on over the Gel when I'm done spraying or brushing? As you can see I have a lot of questions. The boat is brand new so I want it to look just like it did before it was hit and any help would be appreciated.. The picture below is representative of the gouges and chips I have. Some are in the non skid area some are on smooth white...

-Rod C.

[Tim]

If you have epoxy and materials on hand, just use that for the fill material. Frankly, I think every boat owner should have a gallon of the epoxy of their choice on hand for this sort of repair, and others; it just comes in handy for so many chores that I can't imagine not having it around. With a gallon kit of epoxy and a container each of cabosil and microballoons, the repair and adhesive possibilities are endless--on board and around the house, too.

Another choice might be the 3M vinylester "bondo"-like premixed stuff, if you prefer a dedicated product. I'd stay away from the inexpensive polyester fillers, though. I like the epoxy route, myself, because having the epoxy and fillers on hand means that you can tailor any mix to your exact needs, and the variety of materials and the ability to mix small batches makes the product more versatile than a big can of dedicated filler from which you'll only use a small amount.

How deep are these gouges? It's hard to tell from the photo, but I'm not sure if you even need a structural filler to repair. Filling the area with gelcoat might be sufficient, depending on the severity of the damage. It looks as if the gouge does extend slightly into the laminate, so you're probably best off doing a partial fill with epoxy or other putty, then the remainder with gelcoat. If you use a filler, though, be sure to leave enough room for the gelcoat so that you can sand and buff the repair smooth without removing all the gelcoat.

A heat lamp will provide adequate heat for curing this time of year. Either West System hardener will work; I generally use the slow version year round, since once you get set up with one version it makes sense to stick with what you have. The faster version might be the best choice now, but is less useful at other times. With the heat lamp, either will cure just fine.

As far as recreating your nonskid, you have a few choices:

1. Manually and by eye, as you described in your post

2. Fabricate your own mold pattern using a latex material on an undamaged section of nonskid to create the pattern

3. Purchase a pre-manufactured latex pattern that matches your nonskid from Gibco Flex-Mold

It's tougher than it seems to seamlessly match a nonskid pattern, but it is possible--and certainly possible to get it close enough that one will never notice.

You also need to soften those sharp edges of the gouges a bit before beginning to fill and repair, so that the fill material can bond more effectively and to help make a more seamless transition. It's pretty easy to blend a gelcoat repair, but color matching even after only a year may not be absolutely perfect--but should be very close in your case.

[Summersdawn]

Should I mix the wax in with the Gel or spray it on over the Gel when I'm done spraying or brushing?

The wax prevents air from getting to the gelcoat while curing. You need to prevent air from getting to the gelcoat during its cure stage, otherwise the gelcoat will never harden completely. If you are going to use it, use it only on the top coat - if you skip the wax during the build coats, you get a better chemical bond. Another method that works well is to put some Saran Wrap on top of the last coat to prevent air from getting to it. I prefer this method, as I find it easier to sand (the wax seems to clog the sandpaper). On the non-skid section, if you are using a latex mold (like Tim suggested), this will keep the air away from the curing gelcoat - no wax or Saran Wrap will be needed.

[Maine Sail]

Do you guys know wher I can get the latex to make a mold of my deck?

[Tim]

You should have luck locally at an art and craft supply store, or maybe a hobby store. Or Google it and find it online somewhere.

[Maine Sail]

I'll see if I can find some.