5200 Lava flow removal

[kempmd]

I have two cockpit drains that go to older tapered sea cocks that seize up occasionally but are in fair condition. Right now I am cleaning and lubricating these beasts and wondering if I can get rid of them with what appears to be a lava flow of 5200 around each one. What chemical solvent is safe or is there such a thing that won't damage me or my hull?

[The Good Goose]

I would try a razor knife or a sharp chisel. you can use a heat gun to soften the 5200. I don't know of any solvent.

Brock Richardson

[Figment]

3m does make some sort of 5200 antidote solvent, but I haven't used it.

I generally work under the assumption that anything installed with polyurethane sealant will need to be destroyed to be removed.

It's a solid bronze valve, right? If I were feeling adventurous, I might try getting it wicked hot with a mappgas torch in the hope that I could free the valve without doing serious work to the hull.

eh, on second thought, such a non-cosmetic hull repair would be the easiest part of the job. If the valve needs to go, it's sawzall time.

Are you simply trying to crack the seacock free from the hull, or is the thru-hull fitting still in place?

[dasein668]

Tim used the 5200 anti-bond but based on his description of the process I don't think it would work with a screwed-together installation like a sea-cock, as he had to do serious amounts of prying with a putty knife and conjunction with the anti-bond to get the parts to separate.

Here's the snippet from Tim's website:

The next day, I returned with some new tools--a couple new, stiff putty knives--and a tiny container of Antibond 2015--the magical stuff that's supposed to release the bond of 5200. Don't be fooled by the picture in the catalog, which makes it look like you're getting a standard aerosol-sized can; no, the can isn't much bigger than my thumb. Very small.

<snip editorial comment on the weather>

I slaved over the platform for an hour or more, and the antibond did seem to work. I got the port side of the platform free--well, the after portion at least. The part that is attached to the stem on the flat area either side of the headstay is still glued. I'll deal with that later; I don't care if I break the wood when I pry it up. However, the starboard side was being stubborn. Part of my problem, I discovered after a time, was that the upper deck skin was coming free along with the platform. This highlighted another problem: a small portion of the foredeck contained rotten core and delamination, evidently a problem I missed before. (I didn't recore the foredeck on the starboard side because it seemed OK. Obviously I missed this spot.) In any case, the flexing of the upper laminate was working against me, and the 5200 remained securely stuck to the fiberglass along the inner edge of the platform foot--the spot that I can't get to. Upon seeing this, I stopped work to regroup. I need to debonded that 5200 on the inside and remove the platform without trashing the whole deck. Obviously, I'll have to do some minor core work in this area--probably just drill some holes and inject epoxy. It's a small area, and is confined to the nonskid area, so it'll be easy to repair and repaint.

To read the whole thing, GO HERE

[rshowarth]

I will be replacing the through hulls for my cockpit drains. What would you recommend I use to reinstall them?

3M.....................

[Tim]

The Antibond 2015 does work well, but it needs to contact the 5200 directly. It's still very challenging to remove anything set in 5200, but the Antibond 2015 helps.

For bedding underwater through hulls, polysulfide (3M 101 or Boatlife Lifecaulk) works well, or, for a permanent and stronger installation, 3M 5200. I consider a seacock and through hull to be a permanent installation, as a quality seacock that is well maintained throughout its life will last effectively forever, and therefore should never need to be removed. But polysulfide is strong enough to use here also.

[Ceasar Choppy]

If you are replacing the scuppers in the cockpit, you might want to try 3M 4000UV. stays white and holds up to the UV. Its a little like 4200 in that it is adhesive-- just not as strong as 5200.

[kempmd]

Thanks, after working on other small projects I put my 6'5" frame in there and decided that repair was possible and leaving both thru hulls in was safe. They aren't the nicest looking chunks of bronze but this isn't my neighbors Pacific Seacraft. On to rigging and $par$.