Recessed, angled, instrument panel

Bob L · Post by **Bob L** » Fri Oct 27, 2006 10:39 am

My original Yanmar engine panel is aft-facing, screwed into the vertical surface of the cockpit footwell, just under the companionway. The PO decided there "wasn't enough" teak on the boat, and made an angled teak fixture for it with slide-in plexiglass to protect it from the weather.

When stepping out of the companionway it was easy to step on this, as it now protruded 2-3 inches into the cockpit. The wood was broken and I removed it. I found the hole under it is bigger than the original Yanmar panel (a cheap, flimsy, black plastic POS). Even with the teak fixture removed, I still step on the ignition key.

I'm looking for a recessed fixture, white fiberglass, to fill in this hole. Preferable something that "leans back" at an angle, with room for more gauges and switches. Any ideas? I've searched the internet and so far haven't found the right combination of keywords to get a hit.

Thanks in advance!

Post by **Tim** » Fri Oct 27, 2006 12:29 pm

This sounds like a good opportunity for you to delve into some self-mold making and build your own fixture to spec from fiberglass.

This thread highlights a similar instrument panel project on Joe Henson's Triton. Check it out.

Bob L · Post by **Bob L** » Fri Oct 27, 2006 1:14 pm

Gaaahh..... I knew the first reply would be "make it yourself" :)

Hey, great thread link. Thanks Tim!

Ceasar Choppy · Post by **Ceasar Choppy** » Fri Oct 27, 2006 2:28 pm

I've been looking for something like this for a VERY LONG TIME.
Closest I found was something from Sailing Speciaties, Inc. : http://www.ssicustomplastics.com/

Problem I have with their stuff is that it is too deep and too big, but take a look through their catalog and you might find something.

The other alternative I thought of using was a 1/4" piece of kydex mounted flat. I would rather like to have the instruments angled, so I could see them from where I am at the helm, but the aonly alternative there is either getting the kydex thermoformed or making it out of FG-- either way, I'll have to make a mold of some sort.

Keep me posted if you find out anything more.

Ceasar Choppy · Post by **Ceasar Choppy** » Fri Oct 27, 2006 2:36 pm

Actually, as I look at this:

If you could put something behind the panel to give it an angle, it might work...

Go here http://www.ssicustomplastics.com/everything.htm and scroll down to Recessed Control Panels

Bob L · Post by **Bob L** » Fri Oct 27, 2006 4:11 pm

Good call. I will look into this more. Thanks!

Duncan · Post by **Duncan** » Sat Oct 28, 2006 3:54 pm

Another option is to mount the panel on the rear of the cabintop. It's a little longer run, but I saw this on a C&C Corvette and it looked very good (in a teak frame with a clear face). It has always struck me as odd that engine instruments get stuck where they are inconvenient and hard to keep an eye on.

Mark.Wilme · Post by **Mark.Wilme** » Sat Oct 28, 2006 5:40 pm

You could also take one of the other units - maybe for a coaming box or sometthing and modify it to fit yourspace and your instruments.

Bob L · Post by **Bob L** » Sat Oct 28, 2006 9:34 pm

Agree. Some of the other units have locking watertight lids - another way to "lock" the boat, and really keep the instruments dry.

Robert The Gray · Post by **Robert The Gray** » Mon Oct 30, 2006 1:43 pm

This may not be the thread but I have always wondered why sailboat engines use a key for the ignition. Two switches and a starter button seem less likely to snag things and there are no keys to lose or get broken off in the lock. I would assume most boats are stored with the engine battery switched off and most of the battery switches are down below. Even if the thief had your key they would still have to break into the boat down below to turn on the battery to start the motor any way. Ok I will admit it. I broke the key off in my ignition and I am going to just leave it in there and use a screwdriver to turn the ignition switch. I wish I was an electrical genius and could just go to radio shack and make myself a custom panel.

r

Post by **Tim** » Mon Oct 30, 2006 1:48 pm

The keys are pretty pointless, since engines from the same manufacturer use the same key, so there's no security afforded by the key whatsoever.

I suppose the only befefit, as it were, is that with a key, you can hang your key on the engine raw water intake seacock ensure that you open it before starting the engine.

Besides, keys and battery switches won't keep anyone who wants to steal your boat from stealing it. It's actually impressive how little boat theft there truly is in this country. It's not the keys that are preventing it!

Post by **dasein668** » Mon Oct 30, 2006 2:56 pm

It really should be pretty easy to pull out the existing key switch and either:

1) bypass it entirely
2) replace it with a toggle or rotory switch
or
3) replace it with another key switch that uses a unique key, if you want that for improved security.

I'd open it up and take a look at the switch wiring, or consult your engine's wiring diagram if you have one. I bet that with just a few minutes of puzzling you will be able to figure it out?electrical genius or no!

Rachel · Post by **Rachel** » Mon Oct 30, 2006 3:18 pm

Tim wrote:The keys are pretty pointless, since engines from the same manufacturer use the same key, so there's no security afforded by the key whatsoever.

Exactly! When I order, say, a Yanmar key for a customer, I always wonder if they realize there's just one part number. For all the keys.... (that math is easy). I know I had always assumed it was like cars, and they were relatively unique. Don't tell the thieves ;-)

--- Rachel

Bob L · Post by **Bob L** » Mon Oct 30, 2006 4:49 pm

To explain the lack of theft: The key might keep some hooligan from going out on a joyride, but how do you hide a 35' full keel boat? I don't see many chop shops parting out cruisers... well, there's that one up in Maine... :)

Summersdawn · Post by **Summersdawn** » Mon Oct 30, 2006 5:10 pm

Bob L wrote:To explain the lack of theft: The key might keep some hooligan from going out on a joyride, but how do you hide a 35' full keel boat? I don't see many chop shops parting out cruisers... well, there's that one up in Maine... :)

Didn't that one stop last year...

Bob L · Post by **Bob L** » Mon Oct 30, 2006 5:14 pm

Come to think of it, Tim has been out of the boat biz for 6-18 months, based on good behavior...

Post by **Tim** » Mon Oct 30, 2006 6:07 pm

Bob L wrote:Come to think of it, Tim has been out of the boat biz for 6-18 months, based on good behavior...

Hardly out of the biz--just taking a short sebbatical, as it were. I'd rather no one got any sort of idea that somehow I was not very much still in the business. I have more boats stacked up awaiting attention than ever before.

Things are gearing up for December 1, when I return to work full time.

Mark.Wilme · Post by **Mark.Wilme** » Mon Oct 30, 2006 8:40 pm

Also no hooligan is going to readily back a full keel boat out of a slip and make a quick escape at 6 knots, are they ?

bcooke · Post by **bcooke** » Mon Oct 30, 2006 9:37 pm

Actually, boat thieves aren't going to sell your boat most likely. They are going to take it to quiet spot nearby where they will strip it clean unmolested. Or they will take it to the beach to meet their friends where it will lay abandoned.

I agree that keys are silly on boats. Maybe people that drive cars like the familiarity of keys. A kill switch in a discreet location is much more effective.

-Britton

Rachel · Post by **Rachel** » Tue Oct 31, 2006 1:09 am

bcooke wrote: Maybe people that drive cars like the familiarity of keys.
-Britton

And wheels!
(On small boats, where you don't need them.)

bcooke · Post by **bcooke** » Tue Oct 31, 2006 9:20 pm

True but at least that wheel made me a wealthy man on Ebay ;-)