Rudder scraping and prep

[Mark.Wilme]

Not sure whether to post this in Questions or here, so "here" goes.

I am stripping the bottom paint off the old boat (the one I just sold - new bottomm job goes with the deal). Hoping to get the stripping done whilst it is still in the 50's and then finish up in the spring. It's slow going, definitely multiple layers with different adhesion levels in different places. But I think most of it will come off with a 3" putty knife or a hook scraper and then we will use some Peel Away to get the rest.

My question is about the rudder, I have been focusing on this and in many places I am down to bare wood, some gouging, sure but a lot of places yous bare wood.

It is not our plans to apply a barrier coat to the bottom - she has managed for 20 years without blisters and from what I read adding a barrier coat now could end up trapping moisture and future blisters, no - we will strip it, fill the gouges, sand, clean thoroughly and then apply three coats of BottomKote (Red, Black, Blue).

But what about the rudder ? The hull is already waterproof so it is in my opinion self sustaining - the rudder being bare wood will 'soak' up water (it is dry right now). I am thinking I need to apply a coat or two of barrier coat before I apply bottom paint. yes ? no ?

What does the group think ?

Sorry - no pics. (yet)

[CharlieJ]

I would vote strongly for about 4 coats of epoxy on the rudder. from my experience that will save you ( or the new owner) tons of effort later. See no real need for a barrier coat additive in the epoxy put over wood.

[Tim]

Your Elite has a wooden rudder? I'm surprised to hear that.

I don't see a need for barrier coat on your hull for the reasons you mention, and I don't believe these barrier coats designed as part of a repair system for blistered fiberglass sailboats have any business being on wood at all.

I don't think it's necessarily a bad idea to coat the rudder with some epoxy first, as Charlie mentioned, but at the same time I don't think it's required either. Paint or other coatings fail on wood (or any surface) when moisture gets behind the coating. Dry wood should accept paint well, and the coating should last without problem. I've not experienced much in the way of problems with "just painted" wood, but I also understand the thought process behind possibly treating the wood with epoxy first.

Whatever coating you use, ensure that the wood is dry and properly prepared, and that the coating is uniform and well applied. No coating is permanent on any wood, and any coating will require maintenance and reapplication later.

[Duncan]

...adding a barrier coat now could end up trapping moisture...

You wrote this with respect to your hull, but I am wondering if it applies equally well to your rudder? My suspicion is that you will end up all right either way. Salt water and wood get along fine, as I understand it, so attempting to make a seal which might end up working the opposite way you expect it to might not be the best approach?

(I will qualify this by saying I haven't got a clue if this is right or not, and am just posting it to learn more)

[Ric in Richmond]

Not sure why you would want to put a coating that doesn't expand and contact on a surface that is guaranteed to do so. Seems like a recipe for a big mess.

That wood rudder is going to be happiest all wet and swelled up.

Me..I'd just paint it.

[Figment]

Same here. My mahogany rudder, aged and troubled though it may be, never has any problems with paint adhesion. Soft paints seem to have no problem accommodating the expansion.

[Mark.Wilme]

Thanks guys, I'll take some photos anyway when I am next down there (probably the weekend after Christmas)