Engine intake seacock location and size.

Rachel · Post by **Rachel** » Wed Apr 04, 2007 7:05 pm

One of the things on my "must be done before launch" list is to install seacocks. I've already removed most of the old through-hull/gate valves, and, while it would be easy to put the new seacocks in the old holes, there's no reason to do so if there's a better way.

My boat has the original A-4, and the intake is/was on the port side of the bilge, near the front end of the engine compartment. You can see the backing block near the bottom of this photo:

The hose actually crossed over to the starboard side to supply the engine, getting in the way of my already meager access to the deep bilge. Between that and the Sumlog cable, reaching in there was a real pain (and I can't remove my engine every time I want to clean). Here you can see the intake ball valve, which has a green handle, and the hose crossing over the front of the deep bilge:

It would be nice not to have it do that, but I'm not sure it would work to bring it in on the starboard side because it would have to make a sharp turn. How do the engine intakes on other boats come in? Is the intake on an A-4 an oddball or do most engines have it in roughly the same location (on the engine)?

Also, the through-hull I removed was 1/2", but I plan to increase it to 3/4" -- that's more-or-less standard, right?

Thanks ahead,

Rachel

Figment · Post by **Figment** » Wed Apr 04, 2007 8:13 pm

Does the water line run through a strainer on the way to the pump? That'd be upgrade No. 1 in my book.

My A4 intake is 1/2". She just doesn't drink that much.

I'd leave it where it is. That thruhull+valve+tailpiece assembly you had there projected a lot farther from the hull than a seacock+tailpiece will. A 90degree tailpiece could obstruct deep-bilge access less as well.

I just moved my intake to a location similar to your original (except on the other side), and I'm going to try to jump it right into a strainer mounted above. I'd love to let a pic speak the thousand words, but batteries are not my friends lately.

bcooke · Post by **bcooke** » Wed Apr 04, 2007 9:39 pm

When I reinstall my RW seacock I am going to go with something like what you have. More room would be nice but our boats are not roomy. Welcome to the world of Plastic Classics. Get used to it :-)

You can always loosen the hose clamps and remove the hose if you need to get back into the bilge. Hopefully you won't need to do that every weekend.

On a second look of your installation, I think I have more room up front because Tritons have their battery box there. Since I moved my batteries I knocked out that bit of sole under the step. I can't remember A30's but if you have a step there then you could do the same.

I would strongly second the recomendation for a strainer. I know it is another $100 or so but it could save your engine.

I have a 3/4" RW inlet on my installation. One thing I learned is to get a reinforced hose. The RW pump is more than strong enough to collapse a regular rubber hose if there is much resistance (from a clog or plugged strainer). I know this firsthand.

I really like the 'T' I put in my RW intake as well. There is a picture around here somewhere. After my RW seacock I installed a t-valve so I can draw water from the seacock or a bucket (or even the bilge). It is really handy for running anti-freeze through the sytem when it is time to winterize- Or a fresh water flush or whatever. All for the cost of a simple bronze ball valve and a couple of hose to pipe adapters. Just a thought.

Making progress. Looks good. Now you just need to rewire the engine, moving the non-engine wiring somewhere else, cleaning up that area a bit :-) What's that stuff to the right (port side of engine room)?

-Britton

Rachel · Post by **Rachel** » Wed Apr 04, 2007 10:42 pm

Oh right, strainer. Good thing I asked! Right now all I have (had) is one of those round metal perforated "saucers" over the outside of the through-hull -- like this one but not a hinged model:

However that's probably not where I want to go to unclog things...

What sort of strainer are you all talking about for the inside? I can't imagine there's room for one of these.... is there?

My boat doesn't have any kind of battery box or space at the bottom of the companionway stairs. In fact, the bottom stair flips up so that you can stand more easily "in" the galley. I do have quite a bit of room to port of the engine -- there is a shelf under the icebox that goes right over to the hull-side (which would go away if I made a more conventional icebox there).

So.... you've given me something to think about.

I'll probably go up to a 3/4" seacock just because they seem more common, and more water can't hurt. I sawed off the 1/2" through-hull before realizing it was the one properly-designed one on the boat, so I don't have anything that size to save or re-use. If I'd taken the outside strainer off first I would have noticed it, but as it was I thought it was one of the OEM "pipe nipple peened over washer" ones (they were elsewhere).

Good idea on the "T" fitting, Britton. There was something like that on the stack of valves that I took off, no doubt for winterizing. I wonder if one of those "safety" seacocks by Groco (which look a bit creepy) would accomplish what you're talking about without taking up as much room (?) I'm not sure I totally get these.

R.

bcooke · Post by **bcooke** » Wed Apr 04, 2007 11:30 pm

However that's probably not where I want to go to unclog things...

Me neither.

What sort of strainer are you all talking about for the inside? I can't imagine there's room for one of these....

Yes, that is what we are talking about.

Here is my 'T' fitting again.

In this messy photo, the RW seacock is out of the picture to the left. It feeds into the ball valve. The other end of the ball valve is connected to the loose hose which was normally hanging in the bilge. The 'outlet' from the T valve goes to the strainer and then to the RW pump. For the record. There is a panel, currently removed that the fuel filter mounted to.

I am not familiar with the Groco safety valves.

-Britton

Ceasar Choppy · Post by **Ceasar Choppy** » Wed Apr 04, 2007 11:50 pm

Rachel wrote:...

I'll probably go up to a 3/4" seacock just because they seem more common, and more water can't hurt. I sawed off the 1/2" through-hull before realizing it was the one properly-designed one on the boat, so I don't have anything that size to save or re-use. If I'd taken the outside strainer off first I would have noticed it, but as it was I thought it was one of the OEM "pipe nipple peened over washer" ones (they were elsewhere).

Good idea on the "T" fitting, Britton. There was something like that on the stack of valves that I took off, no doubt for winterizing. I wonder if one of those "safety" seacocks by Groco (which look a bit creepy) would accomplish what you're talking about without taking up as much room (?) I'm not sure I totally get these.

R.

Rachel,

Here's the deal on those "safety" seacocks: the smallest one they make with the plug integral to the seacock is 1.25" which is way more than you need. They do, however, make one of those plugs that you can use in-line which I used to have on my Renegade. The smallest one they make is 3/4" so you'll be upgrading if you want one. I highly recommend them though-- makes winterizing a snap!!

Do you have any other bilge access you can use? If you upgrade to 3/4" you can put the TH just about anywhere and you'll still have plenty of water getting to the engine. Also, if you put the seacock anywhere where you have access to the top of it, if you suck anything up, you can disconnect the hose and use a stick to get that jellyfish out.

fusto · Post by **fusto** » Thu Apr 05, 2007 12:35 am

Rachel wrote:I can't imagine there's room for one of these.... is there?

I've used these with good success.

They're Forespar marelon, and are a lot easier to locate in a cramped engine space.
Not nearly as unwieldy as a bronze and glass strainer.

Forespar also makes these:

You can thread a hose right into it. Unfortunately they only come in 90 degree models, and no smaller than inch.

Post by **Tim** » Thu Apr 05, 2007 7:19 am

A 1/2" valve and hose is adequate for an A4, but would be small if you ever decided to switch to diesel; even the small diesels draw a lot more water than an A4.

That said, sticking with 1/2" now might make sense, if only because the various components are just that much smaller, and take up less of your valuable room.

If you go to 3/4", you'll somewhere need to downsize the hose before it gets to your raw water pump. If you install a sea strainer, this is the best place to change hose sizes--just use a smaller hose barb on the outlet side.

Make room for an internal strainer somewhere. They are worth it.

The seacocks with garden hose attachments, or the add-on fittings with the same, or a T-type setup like Britton's, are handy to have, but if space is at a premium the additional fittings may not be worth it. You'll just have to see how it all might fit in your particular installation.

It's not that hard to remove the hose from the water pump inlet and install a temporary length into a bucket for drawing fresh water or antifreeze. Still, if you can add a built-in system, it's that much nicer. Just don't feel tied to it if it takes up more room than you'd like.

Just be sure that your seacock and strainer are easiy accessible for operation and maintenance.

bcooke · Post by **bcooke** » Thu Apr 05, 2007 10:06 pm

Tim wrote:It's not that hard to remove the hose from the water pump inlet and install a temporary length into a bucket for drawing fresh water or antifreeze. Still, if you can add a built-in system, it's that much nicer. Just don't feel tied to it if it takes up more room than you'd like.

Definitely. Still, it is the little things in life that bring the most pleasure. Maybe it is just because I spend so much time with machinery but if I can save a few seconds' effort then my whole day is better because of it :-)

-Britton

Figment · Post by **Figment** » Sat Apr 07, 2007 7:09 pm

Figment wrote:
My A4 intake is 1/2". She just doesn't drink that much.

My pants are somewhat ablaze. My intake is indeed 3/4".

That is to say: the thru-hull, hose, strainer, etc. are all 3/4". The intake at the water pump is 1/2".

Ceasar Choppy · Post by **Ceasar Choppy** » Sun Apr 08, 2007 8:24 am

I'm with you Figment. The only problem I had was reducing the 3/4 to 1/2-- (or was it 3/8?) gracefully. But I never had to worry about having enough water coming out the pipe.