hose to fitting connections

Ask a question...get an answer (or two).
Post Reply
Hirilondë
Master of the Arcane
Posts: 1317
Joined: Thu Dec 28, 2006 8:50 am
Boat Name: Hirilondë
Boat Type: 1967 Pearson Renegade
Location: Charlestown, RI

hose to fitting connections

Post by Hirilondë »

I know Tim locked out the other topic. We totally beat it to death, so it is a good thing.

I would however like to hear opinions on the subject of hose to fitting connections. I see this as a very different subject. Rachel made the following statement that triggered me to ask this question:

"I did, in fact, use "Leak Lock" on several pipe-to-hose connectors today (after cleaning with denatured alcohol and letting it evaporate/dry). I liked it better than the Sikaflex 291 for this job, as I felt like it gave me more consistent, smooth, "tightenability. "

This is a practice I have never heard of. Is it a common practice elswhere? I wouldn't think there is any reason to use anything, and I know that Sealand Vacuflush (I am a certified installer of their systems) does not recommend using anything for connecting flexible PVC. I look forward to any comments.
Dave Finnegan
builder of Spindrift 9N #521 'Wingë'
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Gresham’s Law of information: Bad information drives out good. No matter how long ago a correction for a particular error may have appeared in print or online, it never seems to catch up with the ever-widening distribution of the error.
David

Post by David »

I got the impression she was talking about the threaded pipe side, not the barbed hose side.

David
User avatar
Rachel
Master of the Arcane
Posts: 3044
Joined: Tue Dec 07, 2004 7:59 pm

Post by Rachel »

Yes, it may have gotten a bit buried, but I started that thread about the threaded, bronze-to-bronze connections, and that is what I was referring to. I don't typically use anything on bronze-fitting to hose connections except a clamp (or two, sometimes).

I did read where Nigel Caulder suggests that it's okay to use some sort of "goop" on certain connections (say, you have a metal hose fitting that's a bit short, or rather smooth, etc.). I used a little bit of Sikaflex 291 on one of those type of connections.

As a side note: On many of the recent, Asian-built boats (powerboats are what I've seen), they use something like 5200 as goop on all of the hose-to-metal-fitting connections. Makes it a real pain to change out hoses.

Rachel
Hirilondë
Master of the Arcane
Posts: 1317
Joined: Thu Dec 28, 2006 8:50 am
Boat Name: Hirilondë
Boat Type: 1967 Pearson Renegade
Location: Charlestown, RI

Post by Hirilondë »

Ah, ok, makes sense now. If I may quote Rosanne, Rosannadanna:

"Nevermind"
Dave Finnegan
builder of Spindrift 9N #521 'Wingë'
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Gresham’s Law of information: Bad information drives out good. No matter how long ago a correction for a particular error may have appeared in print or online, it never seems to catch up with the ever-widening distribution of the error.
Quetzalsailor
Master of the Arcane
Posts: 1100
Joined: Fri Aug 26, 2005 9:53 am
Boat Name: Quetzal
Boat Type: LeComte North East 38
Location: Philadelphia, PA

Post by Quetzalsailor »

I think it would be dandy to have a parting agent between barb and hose, but I fear if too good, it would be bad. I've stuck with 'clean and dry'.

My marina typically pulls the hose off the seacock, instead of the strainer to winterise the engine; I pull the hose from the refrigerator since its pump won't take a prime if I simply pull the lid off the strainer.

This will surely lessen the life of the hose.
Post Reply