Bottom paint
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BALANCE
- Skilled Systems Installer
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- Location: Newport, RI
Bottom paint
I'm gearing up (actuallly started today) to paint the bottom. I was wondering as my nose was 5 inches from the hull, whilst sanding, how I tell what kind of paint is on there already. Ablative or not. I ask because (obviously) I want to repaint with the same kind.
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Westsail32
Westsail32
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Hirilondë
- Master of the Arcane
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- Boat Type: 1967 Pearson Renegade
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If a course wet rag or Scotch Bright pad easily removes paint it is ablative. If not, it is some type of hard paint.
Dave Finnegan
builder of Spindrift 9N #521 'Wingë'
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builder of Spindrift 9N #521 'Wingë'
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Gresham’s Law of information: Bad information drives out good. No matter how long ago a correction for a particular error may have appeared in print or online, it never seems to catch up with the ever-widening distribution of the error.
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BALANCE
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So, if it is ablative, which is my suspicion, what's the goal?, get rid of all flakes?, extra coat at the water line? where smooth - just rough it up? I'm sorry for such basic questions. Although I did the bottom of my first boat for 10+ years, I was young and far less into detail and doing it right. I managed to never have to sand SCOUT the one time it happened. All my work on her was above the waterline.
PS It still tastes the same! (that's why I think it's ablative) :)
PS It still tastes the same! (that's why I think it's ablative) :)
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Westsail32
Westsail32
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Hirilondë
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Flakes? Something besides the bottom paint is letting go if you have flakes. I just clean the bottom with water and a Scotch Bright pad, then paint. I do 2 coats on high wear areas like at water line, leading edge of keel and the rudder. One coat on the rest of the bottom.
Dave Finnegan
builder of Spindrift 9N #521 'Wingë'
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Gresham’s Law of information: Bad information drives out good. No matter how long ago a correction for a particular error may have appeared in print or online, it never seems to catch up with the ever-widening distribution of the error.
builder of Spindrift 9N #521 'Wingë'
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Gresham’s Law of information: Bad information drives out good. No matter how long ago a correction for a particular error may have appeared in print or online, it never seems to catch up with the ever-widening distribution of the error.
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BALANCE
- Skilled Systems Installer
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- Joined: Tue Apr 29, 2008 10:14 am
- Location: Newport, RI
Re: Bottom paint
I'm sorry to be belaboring such a seemingly basic task.
David, when I say 'flakes' it is probably more accurate to say chips. Last night I learned from the previous owner that every two years he applied two coats of Trinidad Blue with 75% copper from West Marine. With that and google I am concluding that he has been using a modified epoxy paint – but I am still not 100% sure.
I will post some pictures tonight of my progress on the bottom to back up what I am experiencing. As I'm sanding I will come upon a dot, some are inverted and some stick out. When the sander hits these, they open up and I end up fairing these out to quarter size views of the gel coat. This is happening most frequently along the water line – lots of chips too and those fair out to areas the size of my arm. The leading edges are another place where this is happening.
I've spoken with Petit and because of my harbor; they are recommending their Utimate SR 60% copper. My harbor is known as an underwater greenhouse because of the resource recovery plant right there. I am out in the mooring field and so my water should be fresher, cooler and maybe a little less fertile. Since I will be sailing predominantly Long Island Sound with a once a year excursion as far East as Maine, should I go ablative or non ablative? I can see that ablative would be easier to maintain than an epoxy based. Am I right in saying that ablative means no epoxy and 'non ablative' means epoxy based?
What would be best for the boat? cuz whatever the boat wants….
David, when I say 'flakes' it is probably more accurate to say chips. Last night I learned from the previous owner that every two years he applied two coats of Trinidad Blue with 75% copper from West Marine. With that and google I am concluding that he has been using a modified epoxy paint – but I am still not 100% sure.
I will post some pictures tonight of my progress on the bottom to back up what I am experiencing. As I'm sanding I will come upon a dot, some are inverted and some stick out. When the sander hits these, they open up and I end up fairing these out to quarter size views of the gel coat. This is happening most frequently along the water line – lots of chips too and those fair out to areas the size of my arm. The leading edges are another place where this is happening.
I've spoken with Petit and because of my harbor; they are recommending their Utimate SR 60% copper. My harbor is known as an underwater greenhouse because of the resource recovery plant right there. I am out in the mooring field and so my water should be fresher, cooler and maybe a little less fertile. Since I will be sailing predominantly Long Island Sound with a once a year excursion as far East as Maine, should I go ablative or non ablative? I can see that ablative would be easier to maintain than an epoxy based. Am I right in saying that ablative means no epoxy and 'non ablative' means epoxy based?
What would be best for the boat? cuz whatever the boat wants….
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Westsail32
Westsail32
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Figment
- Damned Because It's All Connected
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Re: Bottom paint
I was happy with the performance of Ultima SR in similarly fertile water last year.
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Hirilondë
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Re: Bottom paint
An ablative paint is very soft and it wears away on purpose. It is definitely not an epoxy, but then not all hard bottom paints are either.
You could very well just have chipping paint, as it is a hard paint. If you choose to stay with one, then just give the bottom a good sanding and continue. Some day you will want it stripped, when is a matter of opinion.
I am sold on ablative for now. But with the environmental regulations developing as they are, that may not be allowed soon.
You could very well just have chipping paint, as it is a hard paint. If you choose to stay with one, then just give the bottom a good sanding and continue. Some day you will want it stripped, when is a matter of opinion.
I am sold on ablative for now. But with the environmental regulations developing as they are, that may not be allowed soon.
Dave Finnegan
builder of Spindrift 9N #521 'Wingë'
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Gresham’s Law of information: Bad information drives out good. No matter how long ago a correction for a particular error may have appeared in print or online, it never seems to catch up with the ever-widening distribution of the error.
builder of Spindrift 9N #521 'Wingë'
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Gresham’s Law of information: Bad information drives out good. No matter how long ago a correction for a particular error may have appeared in print or online, it never seems to catch up with the ever-widening distribution of the error.
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BALANCE
- Skilled Systems Installer
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Re: Bottom paint
Would it be ok to put ablative paint on top of whatever is on there? That pretty much sums up what I'm asking. I will continue to sand the way I have been.
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Westsail32
Westsail32
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Hirilondë
- Master of the Arcane
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- Location: Charlestown, RI
Re: Bottom paint
In most cases it is OK to put ablative over hard. Read the directions for the ablative in mind though. Micron Extra which is what I use says it is ok.
Dave Finnegan
builder of Spindrift 9N #521 'Wingë'
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Gresham’s Law of information: Bad information drives out good. No matter how long ago a correction for a particular error may have appeared in print or online, it never seems to catch up with the ever-widening distribution of the error.
builder of Spindrift 9N #521 'Wingë'
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Gresham’s Law of information: Bad information drives out good. No matter how long ago a correction for a particular error may have appeared in print or online, it never seems to catch up with the ever-widening distribution of the error.
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Idon84
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Re: Bottom paint
While we are on the subject of bottom paint. What kind of paint would be recommended for a dinghy that sits on the trailer 50% of the time an on a mooring the other 50% of the time? I would love to have the ease of an ablative but it would be easily removed when put on the trailer. Is a hard paint the only way to go in this regard? I used Pettit unepoxy last year because I had a can laying around but it didn't seem to give me any protection at all and now I'm removing all of it.
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Hirilondë
- Master of the Arcane
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- Joined: Thu Dec 28, 2006 8:50 am
- Boat Name: Hirilondë
- Boat Type: 1967 Pearson Renegade
- Location: Charlestown, RI
Re: Bottom paint
Yes, I think so. Ablative rubs off so much so that it would be a terrible choice in my opinion. I used Vivid on my dinghy. As a nesting dinghy, having bottom paint that doesn't come off from contact with other stuff is very important. It isn't wonderful in regards to anti-fouling, but it seems a good compromise for the application. I will post some pics in a day or 2. I am painting it right now.Idon84 wrote: I would love to have the ease of an ablative but it would be easily removed when put on the trailer. Is a hard paint the only way to go in this regard? .
Dave Finnegan
builder of Spindrift 9N #521 'Wingë'
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Gresham’s Law of information: Bad information drives out good. No matter how long ago a correction for a particular error may have appeared in print or online, it never seems to catch up with the ever-widening distribution of the error.
builder of Spindrift 9N #521 'Wingë'
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Gresham’s Law of information: Bad information drives out good. No matter how long ago a correction for a particular error may have appeared in print or online, it never seems to catch up with the ever-widening distribution of the error.
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Idon84
- Skilled Systems Installer
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Re: Bottom paint
That's what I figured... Thanks,