Some of us may remember this thread on Primary Anchor Selection
http://www.triton381.com/forum/viewtopi ... in&start=0
Amazingly, through two pages of anchor discussion, we never really got into the issue of chain or rode. What is the appropriate line diameter and link size for our boats? Or, at least, what do we all actually use?
Ditto for docklines or mooring pendants.
My anchor rode is 7/16" with a cobbled-together chain that's 5' of 3/8" then 5' of 5/16".
My docklines are 7/16", except for the springs which are 3/8".
When I'm on a mooring, the line is 5/8".
People are forever commenting that my stuff ('cept the chain of course) is too light. I dunno, I just don't see the need for 5/8" line on a boat of this size.
(underlying motive for the question: I'm shopping for a rode and chain for my backup/storm anchor. I'm thinking 7/16" line and 25' of 1/4' chain.)
Docklines, mooring lines, anchor rodes and chain
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CharlieJ
- Wood Whisperer
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- Location: South coast of Texas, Matagorda Bay
Here's what I carry aboard Tehani, our Meridian 25. 5300 pound displacement, we figure 7000 loaded for cruising with fuel, water tanks, food, US, etc
Bower anchor, in roller on bow. 22 Pound Claw (Simpson Lawrence version of the Bruce). 100 feet 1/4 inch Hi- Test chain, backed by 100 feet of 1/2 nylon.
Kedge anchor, stored in locker built under cockpit floor. 12 pound Hi-Tensile Danforth, 25 feet of 1/4 Hi -test chain 200 feet 1/2 nylon.
In addition, when we are off cruising away from our home waters, there is a 15 pound folding Northhill , with 25 feet of 1/4 hi - test chain and 200 feet of 5/8 nylon, which also gets stowed under the ccokpit for now. I carry that for rock and or grass.
Plus I carry a 4 pound Danforth with 6 feet of small chain and 100 feet of 1/4 line, which is used to stop swinging, hold a stern where I want it, etc. We NEVER lie to that anchor.
If I were cruising someplace with deeper waters than the southern coastal waters or Bahamas, I'd go to 300 feet of chain on the bower. Nothing else would change.
And while we are on the subject of anchors - does any one know where I can find a chain connector for Hi Test chain? The kind that looks like a pair of C's with the studs you peen over. I can find them easily for regular chain, but nothing with the 2600 pound rating that 1/4 hi- test has.
On dock lines, because our marina has a tendency toward a slight chop, I use 1/2 nylon for all mooring lines, except the spring, which is 3/8s.
Bower anchor, in roller on bow. 22 Pound Claw (Simpson Lawrence version of the Bruce). 100 feet 1/4 inch Hi- Test chain, backed by 100 feet of 1/2 nylon.
Kedge anchor, stored in locker built under cockpit floor. 12 pound Hi-Tensile Danforth, 25 feet of 1/4 Hi -test chain 200 feet 1/2 nylon.
In addition, when we are off cruising away from our home waters, there is a 15 pound folding Northhill , with 25 feet of 1/4 hi - test chain and 200 feet of 5/8 nylon, which also gets stowed under the ccokpit for now. I carry that for rock and or grass.
Plus I carry a 4 pound Danforth with 6 feet of small chain and 100 feet of 1/4 line, which is used to stop swinging, hold a stern where I want it, etc. We NEVER lie to that anchor.
If I were cruising someplace with deeper waters than the southern coastal waters or Bahamas, I'd go to 300 feet of chain on the bower. Nothing else would change.
And while we are on the subject of anchors - does any one know where I can find a chain connector for Hi Test chain? The kind that looks like a pair of C's with the studs you peen over. I can find them easily for regular chain, but nothing with the 2600 pound rating that 1/4 hi- test has.
On dock lines, because our marina has a tendency toward a slight chop, I use 1/2 nylon for all mooring lines, except the spring, which is 3/8s.
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Tim
- Shipwright Extraordinaire
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For my main anchor, a 35# CQR, I use a 1/2" nylon rode with 30' of 5/16" G4 chain. I use this setup exclusively, and feel that it is beyond adequate.
7/16" for docklines should be more than adequate, particularly in a protected river. Certainly nothing over 1/2" is needed.
You'd probably even find that the "appropriate" size line, according to whatever random reference chart there might be, for a boat of 8000# displacement is no larger than what you're using. With boats of our size, usually line size ends up being more a factor of user-friendliness on the hands than anything. Lines smaller than 7/16 tend to get hard on the hands.
Most people underestimate the strength of nylon. In fact, one can actually create more harm from a nylon rode size that is too large for the boat, as the line won't stretch as much as it's designed for. It's this stretch that allows nylon to hold such high loads, as it avoids heavy shock loading or jerking.
Tell the dockside naysayers that lines almost never break because of reaching the limits of their ultimate strength; it's the chafe that kills lines almost every time.
7/16" for docklines should be more than adequate, particularly in a protected river. Certainly nothing over 1/2" is needed.
You'd probably even find that the "appropriate" size line, according to whatever random reference chart there might be, for a boat of 8000# displacement is no larger than what you're using. With boats of our size, usually line size ends up being more a factor of user-friendliness on the hands than anything. Lines smaller than 7/16 tend to get hard on the hands.
Most people underestimate the strength of nylon. In fact, one can actually create more harm from a nylon rode size that is too large for the boat, as the line won't stretch as much as it's designed for. It's this stretch that allows nylon to hold such high loads, as it avoids heavy shock loading or jerking.
Tell the dockside naysayers that lines almost never break because of reaching the limits of their ultimate strength; it's the chafe that kills lines almost every time.
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