Question: hull- deck joint on a pearson Renegade

[Polecat]

Does anyone have a drawing or can anyone describe how it is put together? Toe-rail is off & interior is open & still can't figure how they put it together. Looks like the gunnel is just rolled over flat to the inside and the deck is set on. No thru bolts in sight - just a few 1 1/2" stainless screws every 6 inches.

jim

[Hirilondë]

Looks like the gunnel is just rolled over flat to the inside and the deck is set on. No thru bolts in sight - just a few 1 1/2" stainless screws every 6 inches.

jim

Yup, and then it is glassed on the inside. Is yours coming apart? Or just an academic question?

edit: Here is an over-simple diagram I did a while ago to show how the toerail fits.

[Ceasar Choppy]

There are very few boats who's builders went to the trouble of thru-bolting the hull to deck joint... its not necessarily a bad thing. Sure it would be nice, but most of our plastic classics have survived this long without it.

Of the plastic classics, only the Tartan 34Cs come to mind... I'm sure there are others....But none of the moderately priced boats-- including Pearson-- thru-bolted the hull to deck joint that I am aware.

That said, the inward flange used on the Renegade, and countless other models, is quite strong and effective. Unfortunately, Pearson, along with other builders used silicone back in the day to seal it which is why they tend to leak now.

[David]

Bristol Yachts have the same basic hull to deck joint: they used a gray mastic that never hardens and works quite effectively, and self tapping flat head sheet metal screws every 6 inches. Then, a teak toerail is mounted over the joint using longer sheet metal screws that tap thru the hull to deck joint as well. There is nothing inherently wrong with using self tapping sheet metal screws instead of thru-bolts. Some experts will argue that if tapped into the correctly-sized hole, the sheet metal screws offer a stronger bond with less chance of loosening. Of course the trick is always drilling the correct hole.

In practical use, I have found the hull to deck screws in my Bristol to mostly accept another half to full turn of tightening.

[Polecat]

Thanks for the info - I see now how it was done. Yes have a few leaks. There are several places that leak under a low pressure flow. Started taking the wood toe rail off thinking I'd work out a good fix - and have never seen anything like this. Looks like I'll need to re-tab several places inside and the whole joint on the outside. The sealant was all bad - just laying in there under the wood with no attachment. pulling the screws that go thru the deck allow it to be separated slightly -- think I can clean it out and put a bit of 5200 or maybe epoxy in there. I wonder if it would be worth it to replace the toe rail screws with # 8 flat head machine screws. I plan on taking this 40 yr old off shore a bit but mostly coastal cruising.
Oh well - just time & money
jim